Popular Woodworking 2009-10 № 178, страница 35

Popular Woodworking 2009-10 № 178, страница 35

The traditional approach. A common operation for a toothing iron was to use it in a scraping plane, or in a plane that was dedicated for a toothing operation.

Two planes in one. One of the nice things about a bevel-up is how simple it is to swap the irons. I use one toothed iron for rough operations and follow up with a standard iron (shown on the bench).

is no chipbreaker to jam up with the heavy shavings, and the changeover from a regular blade to a toothed one is very quick and simple - as is the adjustment of the throat from a normal narrow opening to a wider opening needed for a rough cut. Because these planes have a low bedding angle there is also less resistance to an aggressive roughing cut than there is in a bevel-down plane with a frog.

When working rough stock I use a jack plane for the initial leveling of the board. You can use a toothed blade in any size plane, but I find it most effective in a jack plane because of the length of the tool's sole. This ensures that as you remove material quickly you also introduce flatness to the piece due to the bearing surface of the plane.

Make no mistake, this toothed blade will not leave a clean finished surface. However, you will not be making more work for yourself by causing tear-out at the roughing stage. When working in woods with a tendency to tear out, the heavy cuts needed to get the job done quickly can also cause a lot of problems. The toothed blade will virtually eliminate those problems.

This is not your grandfather's veneer-prepping blade, which is the most common application for a toothed blade. Used in a scraping plane, a toothed blade creates more

glue surface for applying veneer. This is more necessary when using hide glue than when using modern glues, which actually work better with a smooth surface. By its nature, a scraping plane does not allow the aggressive removal that you can get from the low-angle plane, though the basic cutting principals remain the same.

When it comes to rapid stock removal, simply setting your plane for a heavy shaving will let you remove material quickly. If you are going to use a regular blade for this you should put a heavy camber or radius on the blade. A cambered blade is easier than a straight blade to push through a heavy cut, but does not help stop tear-out if the stock has that tendency. If you are using this method you should make traversing cuts, meaning you are moving the plane at 90° degrees to the length of the board. Any diagonal or lengthwise cuts will result in

Create a cross hatch. Work at 45° to the grain in one direction. Then Clear the hatch. Then remove the cross-hatch pattern by using the plane

work 45° to the grain in the other direction. The result will be a cross- with the grain of the board. hatch pattern that will help guide your next step.

48 ■ Popular Woodworking October 2009

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