35 - Revolving Tool Station, страница 13

35 - Revolving Tool Station, страница 13

TECHNIQUE

WIDTH OF CABINET OPENING

panel. Each frame consists of two vertical pieces (stiles) and two horizontal pieces (rails).

thickness. In most cases, the stiles and rails are somewhere between 3/4" and 1" thick. (I used 3/4"-thick stock for mine.)

width. The width of the frame pieces is a matter of personal preference too. I ripped the frame pieces to a width of 2V4".

length. You'll also need to establish the length of the frame pieces. This is easy for the stiles. They're cut to length to match the desired height of the door. But figuring out the length of the rails is a bit trickier.

To do this, start with the desired width of the door and subtract the combined width of the stiles (4V2" in my case). Finally, add the combined length of the tongues that will be routed later on the ends of the rails. Note: To determine the length of the tongue, use the rail bit to rout the profile on the end of a scrap piece, refer to page 14.

stile bit. After cutting all the stiles and rails to length, the next step is to use the stile bit to rout one edge on each piece. It

HEIGHT OF CABINET OPENING

PLUS OVERLAY AT TOP AND BOTTOM

SIZING THE DOOR

NOTE:

HAVE HINGES ON HAND BEFORE SIZING THE DOOR

forms a groove that accepts both the panel and the rail. At the same time, it creates the decorative profile around the inside edge of the frame.

bit height. The shoulder of this profile provides a handy

WIDTH OF CABINET OPENING PLUS OVERLAY ALONG SIDES

FEATHERBOARD

NOTE: PLACE OUTSIDE FACE OF WORKPIECE AGAINST TABLE

way to set the height of the bit. As a rule, I adjust the height so the bit leaves an Vs" shoulder, see Fig. la. If it's less than this, the shoulder tends to "disappear" when you look at it from across the kitchen.

fence. Once you've set the height of the bit, the next step is to position the fence. Why not just use the bearing on the bit to guide the frame piece? Because you'd be taking a full-depth cut. And removing that much material all at once could cause chipout on the edge of the piece.

So to provide a crisp, clean profile, set the fence to make a light cut, see Fig. la. Note: To ensure a consistent cut, use a featherboard to hold the work-piece flat against the table.

After routing each frame piece at one fence setting, move the fence back and run all the pieces through again. Then simply continue this process until the bearing is flush with the fence, see margin at right.

A With a metal rule held on edge, it's easy to align the fence so it's flush with the bearing.

No. 35

ShopNotes

13