46 - Utility Workbench, страница 21

46 - Utility Workbench, страница 21

FEATURE PROJECT

securing the panel (and spacers) with i screws, just remove the support

RIGHT SLIDE PANEL. Now you can turn your attention to the right slide panel (M), see Fig. 5. It's the same height as the left slide panel. But it extends to the back of the bench, so it's longer. This means you'll need to notch both of the upper corners on this panel. Here again, it's best to mount the drawer slides before installing the panel.

The bottom edge of this panel is secured by driving screws up through the shelf, see Front View on top of page 20. (To do this, you may need to slide the "loose" rail on the bottom out of the way.) Then just glue this rail in its permanent location.

To anchor the top part of the panel, I used a similar process. Start by checking that the panel is square to the shelf. Then glue the upper rail (the second loose rail) in place so it butts against the panel. When the glue dries, screw the panel to the rail.

TRIM STRIP. There's one last thing to do before making the drawers. That's to add a trim strip (N) that covers the exposed edge of the right slide panel, see Fig. 6. It's a piece of lV2M-square stock (fir) that's rabbeted to fit the corner of the

panel and then glued in place, see Fig. 6a.

DRAWERS

At this point, the groundwork for the drawers is complete. Now you can build the drawers to fit the opening in the bench.

To keep things simple, all three drawers are identical in size. (One of the false fronts is smaller, but more about that later.)

DRAWER SIZE. There are several things to consider when sizing the drawers. First, the slides I used required a W clearance on each side. So the drawers are 15" wide (1" narrower than the opening). As for length, I made the drawers 22" long.

The type of joinery also plays a part in the length of the drawer pieces. For these drawers, I used a locking rabbet joint. It's a simple joint, yet it provides plenty of strength.

Once you've established the overall size of the drawers, cutting the pieces is just a matter of repetition. Start by cutting the fronts/backs (0) and sides (P) to final size, see Fig. 7. (I used VZ-thick pine.)

LOCKING RABBETS. Now it's time to cut the locking rabbet joints. To keep the drawers from pulling apart, tongues on the ends of the front and back fit into dadoes in the sides, see Fig. 7a. What works best is to cut the dadoes first Then sneak up on the thickness of the tongues by rabbeting the front and back pieces.

CUT GROOVES. Before assembling the drawers, you'll need to cut a groove near the bottom of each piece to hold a V2" plywood bottom (Q), see Fig. 7. Then dry assemble the drawers to make sure the pieces fit.

SLIDES. After gluing and clamping the drawers together, you can mount the other half of the drawer slides. They simply wrap around the bottom edge of the sides. Now slide the drawers into the bench. This will make it easy to position the false fronts that are added next.

FALSE FRONTS. The false fronts are pieces of V4'1 MDF that are attached to the front of each drawer, see Fig. 7. One thing to note is they're not all the same size. I added a narrow false front (R) to the top drawer and two wide false fronts (S) to the two lower drawers, see drawing on page 20.

These pieces are sized to allow an Vs" gap all the way around. After positioning the false fronts on the drawers, they're simply screwed in place. Finally, I mounted a heavy-duty pull to each drawer.

&/z" drawer PULL

FALSE FRONT

FALSE FRONT

FRONT

V

FRONT

22" DRAWER SLIDE

#& x w Fh WOOD-SCREW

J

NQTEs FALSE FRONTS ARE MDF; FRONTS/BACKS AND SIDES ARE 3/4"-THICK STOCK

CUT TO FIT 1/z" PLYWOOD

FALSE FRONT

No. 46

ShopNotes

21

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