Woodworker's Journal 101-Projects-for-Woodworkers, страница 66
legs with counterbored wood screws covered with %" plugs.
The feet can now be joined permanently to the legs with %" dowel pins driven almost, but not quite, through from the outside. Allow the pins to protrude slightly and round off for an antique pegged effect. Seat-support cleats can now be cut to fit between front and back panels. These are screwed into place from the inside.
The seat lid is made up of two pieces: a narrow hinge cleat, Vk" in width, which is fastened to the top of the back panel with blind dowels or plugged screws; and the lift-up lid, which extends about 1" beyond the legs. Round off the front edges of the seat and install with a pair of 2" black butterfly hinges mounted flush.
The top support cleats are of %" stock x 2 x 25". Cleats can be made of 1" stock if you prefer. Shape the cleats and clamp them flush with the top edges of the legs to drill pin holes through both cleats and legs. Use a backup block to prevent splintering. Shape two front pins from 1 diameter x 2Yi" dowel with a knob on one end as shown. Most of these tables had tops that pivoted at the rear on one long dowel that went clear through both cleats, and the example shown employs this arrangement; but you may use two short pins as are used for the front.
The top is made of %" stock, edge glued with %" dowels or stopped Y" plywood splines for strength. Joint the boards, but before locating the dowels, lay the boards out in position, arranging
them for the most pleasing grain effect. Locate a 38"-diameter circle. Then plan your dowel or spline locations so that they will not appear at the edges when the top is cut to shape.
After gluing up the slab, take a thin pine batten about 21 in length, and drill a small hole through the centci about I" from one end. Measure 19' from this hole and drill another small hole, big enough for the point of a pencil to ride in. Now fasten the batten to the ccntcr of the slab with a small brad ihrough the first hole, and swing the batten in a full circle, scribing the circular shape with the pencil. Cut the lop to shape with a saber saw' and carefully rasp and sand edges, rounding them off to simulate wear.
Distress surfaces, if so desired, and round off all outer edges of the base with a rasp before sanding with medium to very fine paper. A dark-toned oil stain looks most authentic on this piece, and it is suggested that final finishing be done with a penetrating oil finish, such as Watco Danish Oil or Minwax Antique Oil. This is a simple quick finish that will give the table the soft glow of old, well-worn wood that originally would not have received a hard-surface finish. This type of finish can be applied with a cloth or with the hands, and it is certainly easier than cleaning up and caring for varnish brushes. As with any sealer, though, be sure to cover all surfaces, including inside the seat, to minimize absorption of moisture.