Woodworker's Journal 1982-6-6, страница 32

Sawhorse Table by Paul Levine

The sawhorses shown here were originally built to be used in my workshop. Knowing how difficult it can be to transport a pair of sawhorses, especially if they must be squeezed into a car, I wanted them to be portable, and that meant they had to fold flat. And of course, it was also important that they be sturdy.

I was so pleased with the appearance of the finished pair, the idea struck me that the sawhorses could be teamed up with a nicely finished oak top to make a very handsome dining room table - one that offered the added feature of being portable. Apartment dwellers and those who move on a regular basis will appreciate that.

So readers have an option here. They can make just a good solid pair of portable workshop sawhorses or they can make an attractive contemporary dining room table.

The table shown has a top that measures 36 inches wide by 72 inches long, but readers can make it to just about any size, larger or smaller. A pair of cleats on the underside of the top will keep it from sliding.

To make the horses, get out stock of red or white oak number 2, common. Cut the stock five inches wide by V* inch thick, using clear cuts or cuts with sound knots. To make a pair of saw-horses, you will need 4 pieces 30 inch (part A), 8 pieces 25 inch (part B), 4 pieces 22 inch (part C), and 4 pieces 4 inch (part D).

Set your radial arm saw or table saw miter gauge to 5 degrees and cut off the legs (B) at one end. With the same miter angle but a lower blade setting (higher on the radial saw) tenon the other end of the legs with a 1 Vi inch long tenon. Also tenon both ends of the stretcher (C). Mortise the legs for the stretcher, and trim the lower edge of the tenon on the stretcher so that it will enter the mortise snugly. Glue up.

When these parts are completely dry, lay the assemblies over their respective base members (A) and mark where the mortises should be made. The inside edges of the tenons on the legs will also have to be trimmed to fit the mortises in the tops. After a trial fit glue up the frames.

When dry, sand smooth, and round over the edges with a router equipped with a V* inch rounding-over bit. Centering the hinges above the legs along the top of the frames, mark where they will go. Place the hinge so that the top edge is flush with the top of the base (A). Scribe the outline of the hinge with a knife or ice pick. With a straight bit in the router, mortise for the hinge plates, staying just inside the line. Use a sharp chisel to clean up the edges. Next, using the router and a Vi inch core box bit, mortise for the barrel of the hinge (see Detail). Hold the router base against a straight edge, or the edge guide. Check to see that the hinge fits properly and then screw in place.

Place the two spreaders (D) together and hinge in the same fashion (see Detail). This time the barrel will protrude above the edge.

Next hinge the spreaders to one of the frame stretchers. The hinge is mounted in reverse so that the countersinks will be towards the stock (see Detail). Lay out flat and mark for the hinges. Mortise and assemble. Place the horse in open position and mark where the spreader falls out on the opposing stretcher, then disassemble. Using the marks, and with the hinge in reverse position, lay the pieces flat and mark and mortise for the hinge. Screw together and finish.

For the top (G), select a piece of V* inch thick lumber-core red or white oak veneer plywood. Try to get straight, or flat cut veneer rather than rotary veneer plywood. The cost is more but the improved quality makes it worth the price. The lumber core is also more costly but it too is worth it.

When you have selected a piece with a suitable face, cut the plywood to size, centering the pattern you wish to use. I cut off 12 inches from each end and about 6 inches from each side. Using the rabbet and dado method (see Detail), apply the Vi inch edging (H) all around, taking care to miter the corners. Try to leave 1/16 to 1/32 inch protruding above the surface, then glue up with Titebond glue. When the glue is dry (allow overnight), plane the protruding edge flush with the plywood. Use a sharp plane that is set for a very thin shaving. Round over the top and botttom of the edge with a V* inch rounding-over bit in the router. Sand and apply Watco oil or the finish of your choice. If you apply the Watco, wait ten minutes and sand with an orbital sander using 500 grit wet or dry silicone carbide paper. This will give a super smooth finish.

To complete the project screw the cleat assembly (parts E & F) to the under side of the top. This will prevent the top from sliding off the horses.

Sawhorse folds flat for easy carrying.