Woodworker's Journal 1982-6-6, страница 34

Oak Desk Clock

This compact oak clock will make an eye-catching addition to any desk and its small size insures that it won't take up much space while keeping you on schedule.

Begin by making the mitered case (parts A & B). As the case provides much of the visual appeal of the clock, try to select stock that has an interesting figure. It's also important that it be flat. Not much stock is required, in fact a piece measuring 2V* inches wide by 23 inches long will take care of the entire case (the length allows for some scrap when cutting).

As shown in the cross-sectional view, the case stock requires two rabbets, one that's V* inch deep (for the back) and another that's 1 Vt inches deep (for the glass, spacers and dial board). Using the tablesaw, and referring to the drawings, you'll find that the rabbets can be cut with little difficulty.

Step 1 shows the sawblade making the first cut which establishes the width and depth of the rabbet for back (D). Note that the tablesaw rip fence is fixed at a point 2 inches from the right-hand side of the blade. Also, the blade is set to a height of 9/16 inches. After making this first cut, the fence is moved about Vt inch to the right, then a second cut is made. The process is repeated until the rabbet is completed.

Step 2 shows the sawblade making the cut which establishes the location of the rabbet for parts C,D,E and F. Note that the fence is now fixed at a point Vt inch from the right-hand side of the blade and the blade height is

now V* inch.

Step 3 shows the final cut. The fence is fixed at a point Vi inch from the left-hand side of the blade with it's height set at 1 13/16 inches. The stock is passed over the blade on edge as shown.

To make the miters, set the saw-blade to 45 degrees. For a good miter joint, the angle must be exact so it's best not to rely on the crude gauges that most tablesaws have. We like to use a draftman's 45 degree triangle which offers accuracy at a reasonably low cost. Also, before starting, be sure that the miter gauge is exactly square to the blade.

With the V* inch edge against the miter gauge, miter one end of the stock. Next, lay out the length of the piece, mark the location of the miter, then flip the stock over (so the opposite edge is against the fence), and cut the piece to length. Make all cuts accurately. Repeat this process until all four case sides are mitered.

Apply glue to the miters, then clamp securely with a strap clamp. The oak really soaks up the glue so it's a good idea to apply one coat, let it soak in, then add a second coat. Allow to dry overnight.

Next, a router equipped with a Vt inch piloted cove bit is used to cut a Vt inch deep cove around the inside of the front. Some router bit pilots have a tendency to burn into the stock, so use a light touch here. After routing, give all outside surfaces a thorough sanding, finishing with at least 220 grit. Lightly round over the edges. Finish

with Deft Danish Oil.

The dial board (F) is made from a piece of V* inch plywood with veneer added to both sides. It's not a good practice to veneer just one side as uneven stresses could cause the plywood to warp at some point in the future. We chose walnut although rosewood, ebony or any other dark wood veneer would also be attractive. A less expensive veneer, such as poplar, can be used for the back of the board. For a small job like this, contact cement is probably the best way to apply the veneer. Finish with a light coat of oil.

Locate the center of part F, then use a compass to lightly scribe a 2 Vt inch diameter circle. At the center, drill a Vt inch diameter hole for the movement shaft. The black dots between numerals are made from Vt inch dowel rod cut to Vt inch lengths with a fine tooth dovetail saw. The Vt inch Arabic numerals (made of brass finished plastic), were purchased from Craft Products Company, 2200 Dean Street, St. Charles, IL 60174. The price is $1.20 per set (order p/n 3251-C81). Mark the location of the dots and numerals, then epoxy them to the board.

Cut the glass (C) to size. We chose a bronze tinted glass but clear also looks good. It's held in the case by the spacer strips (parts D & E) which are secured with a spot of glue at each center. This makes for easy removal should the glass ever need to be replaced.

The quartz battery powered movement, along with the minute and hour hands and the sweep second hand were also purchased from Craft Products. The movement is P/N 2325-X01 ($7.95), the minute and hour hands P/N 2450-K44 (60<t per pair) and the second hand P/N 2459-544 (50$).

The movement (G) is assembled as shown, with the brass locknut holding it in place. The hands are trimmed to fit within the dial face, then added to the movement shaft.

The dial face is inserted into the case and held in place with a glaziers (triangular) point at each side. A plywood back is secured to the case with four small brass screws. Another light coat of Deft Oil completes the project.

Bill of Materials (All Dimensions Actual)