Woodworker's Journal 1982-6-6, страница 37

Old-Time Radio Case

by Sam Allen

If you're a nostalgia buff, radio from the 30's and 40's holds a special place in your heart. Here's a project to help you relive that golden age of radio.

This reproduction of a cathedral radio case can serve many purposes. I originally intended it for use as a speaker enclosure. You can mount a speaker inside and then plug it into the earphone jack of a portable radio or tape player. A lot of today's small portables are equipped with tiny 2" to 3" speakers that can't handle all the sound the amplifier is capable of producing. You'll be amazed how good a small portable can sound when connected to a 6" to 8" extension speaker.

If you're really into nostalgia, you probably have tapes of old radio programs. Now you can really get the feel of sitting around watching the radio by playing your tapes through a speaker mounted in this old-time case.

By building two cases you can use them as extension speakers for your stereo. You can also mount a modern radio inside the case. There is ample room for most transistorized units with room left over for the addition of an oversized speaker. Even if you don't have any electronics experience, you can use the case to camouflage a modern piece of equipment by simply leaving the back off the case and putting the equipment inside.

The empty case can even be used to add a touch of nostalgia to a room's decor. Add a door in the back panel and use the case as a hidden storage space. Add a lock to the door and a slot in the top and it's a giant piggy bank.

Except for parts C and F, the case is made of Vi" 3-ply birch plywood. Start construction by making the front (A). Cut a slightly oversize piece of plywood and transfer the full size pattern to it. The pattern is symmetrical so only one half is shown.

Drill a small hole in the center of each of the outlined openings to allow a jig saw or coping saw blade to be inserted, then proceed to cut out all the openings. Smooth the edges with a rat-tail file and sandpaper wrapped around a dowel. Use part A as a pattern to make the back (part D).

The base (C) can be made of Vi inch or V* inch plywood or solid stock. Cut it to 9Vi inches wide by 7Vi inches long.

Now cut a piece of Vi" birch plywood to make the arched side (part B) and the two reinforcements (part E). The width of this piece should be cut about IVi" more than the finished width of the case (see Detail A). The grain should run lengthwise. Make saw cuts one-half way through the plywood, across the grain, every Vt inch as

shown in Detail A. After the kerfs have been made, rip two Vi inch wide strips to get parts E, then trim part B to the case width of 8 inches. Cut a Vi inch wide x Vt inch deep rabbet on both of the long sides of part B to accept the front (A) and back (D).

Attach the front (A) to the base (C) with glue and two or three small brads. Also temporarily attach the back (D) with two small screws. Note that the front and back will extend beyond the base for Vt inch on each side. Apply glue to the sides of the base (C) and along the front rabbet of part B, but don't apply any glue to the rear rabbet. Secure one end of part B to the base with brads and then bend part B around the top curvature of the front (A) and back (D). The flexibility of plywood will vary depending on what type of core it has. A lauan core is very flexible and should be used if it is available. Plywood with a fir core will be harder to bend. If the plywood will not bend easily, it may be necessary to slightly dampen the kerfed side with water and preform the curve by working the plywood over a large diameter pipe before attaching it to the face. Pull part B tight and secure it with brads to the other side of the base. The dimensions given for part B include a small amount of overhang to compensate for any difference in the final dimensions of the front (A) and back (D) that might occur. Once part B is securely attached to the base, trim off the overhang.

Remove the back (D). The two strips (E) that were cut from part B are used as case reinforcements. Cut them to length so they will fit snugly inside the case. Glue the front reinforcement in place butted up against the inside of the front (A). The rear reinforcement should be positioned so its rear edge lines up with the edge of the rabbet.

Shape the two screw blocks (F) that the back attaches to so they will fit the contour of the arched top and glue them in place (see Detail B).

Now sand the case and round the front edge. What you do next depends on how you plan to use the case. If you're mounting some equipment in it. you'll need to drill the holes for the controls. If you'll be using it for an application that doesn't need controls, you'll need to make some dummy knobs (see Detail C). The dummy knobs are made of Vi" dowel. Fold a piece of rag into a small pad and place a piece of 80 grit sandpaper on top. Put the pad and sandpaper in the palm of your hand and cup your hand. Now push the end of a dowel into the center of the pad and twist it back and forth. It won't take long before the end of the dowel will be nicely rounded.

Switch to finer sandpaper to smooth the dowels, then cut Vi" off the end of the dowel to form the dummy knob. Repeat this procedure until you have made three knobs. Drill a blind pilot hole in the back of the knob for a #6

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