Woodworker's Journal 1982-6-6, страница 40

As I studied an antique cider press, it occurred to me that it could make a lovely lamp with just a few modifications. Basically, the modifications involved adding parts F and G (see Drawing) and some lamp hardware. However, if you'd rather have a working cider press, exclude parts F and G, but add plate (L) as shown in the Detail.

Except for the press screw (K), all parts for the project can be obtained at most hardware stores. Part K can be ordered from Woodcraft Supply Corp., 41 Atlantic Ave., Woburn, MA 01888. It's part number 03J21-AR and the price is $15.45 postpaid.

The one shown is made from cherry, but most any other hardwood would be suitable. Softwoods should be avoided.

Begin by cutting the l³/s inch thick by 29* inch wide stock for the frame (parts A, B, and D), yoke (parts F and G), and feet (part C). You will need approximately eight linear feet. For the frame cut two pieces 12 inches long

(for part A) and two pieces 13 inches long (for parts B and D). Apply a 9/16 inch wide by 7/16 inch deep lengthwise groove along the inside of parts A to accept the Vs inch threaded rod (I). Holding the uprights (A) in place on the bottom (B), mark where the inside of the groove falls. Drill a hole in the bottom to accept the rod. Also drill an angled hole for the lamp cord (see Front Elevation). Turn the uprights over onto the top (D) and repeat this.

Cut two 10 inch lengths of stock for the feet (C), chamfer as shown, then locate them under the bottom (B). Mark where the hole is to be drilled through the feet using the bottom as a template. First countersink the hole to a depth of Vs inch with a IV* inch spade bit, then drill a hole big enough to accept the threaded rod.

Cut two pieces of stock to 8Vs inch (part F) and one piece 9^lA inch (part G) for the yoke. Lay out and cut the dovetails (see Detail), and the tenons. Place the yoke assembly on the top frame

piece (D) and mark for the mortises. Groove part G and the right side part F to hide the wiring, then mortise the top of the frame (D). At this time drill and counterbore part G for the lamp nipple and locknut. The counterbore is 1 inch diameter by Vs inch deep. The through hole is Vs inch diameter.

Also, part D can now be drilled for the threaded nut of the press screw (K). It's held in place with a pair of wood screws. The frame (A, B, & D), yoke (F & G), and feet (C), along with the threaded rods (I), can now be assembled with glue. Use the threaded rods to help clamp the frame and feet. Use additional clamps for the yoke.

Next make the support plate (E) for the barrel. Cut 1 inch stock to 9Vs inch square, and cut off the corners at 45 degrees to make the 4-1/16 octagonal sides. Mark the center, and using a router and a trammel, groove the top of the plate. A Vi inch core-box bit was used to remove the remaining stock in between the grooves. The outside diameter of the groove should measure 8³/4 inches. The completed groove measures V* inch deep by l'/a inches wide. Groove out for the spout in the same fashion without the trammel. After sanding, attach the plate in place with two #10 x 2 inch flat head wood screws.

To make the barrel, buy two lengths of V* inch wide x Vs inch thick iron strapping (J). If your hardware store has galvanized straps, lightly sand the coating. You will be amazed how thin the coating is. Mark for eighteen holes, IV2 inches apart, starting Vi inch from one end of a three foot strap. From one inch stock cut eighteen strips (H), 1 Vs inch thick by 8 inches long. Line them up on a surface and draw lines one inch from the top and bottom, across all pieces. Drill the straps and lay one over the wood strips, lining up the top edge of the strap with the top pencil line. Attach with V* inch round or flat head wood screws. The other strap is attached to the bottom in the same manner.

Bend the assembly into the barrel shape, then remove the screw from the first strip. Overlay the strap so that the holes line up and screw the first strip back in place through both straps. Cut off the excess metal. Chamfer the tops of the strips with a router or a plane, and place in the groove of the support plate.

Refer to the drawing for the arrangement of the lamp parts. The cord is fed down through the nipple and into the groove in parts G & F. It then runs down the inside of part A (use double pointed tacks), and through the angled hole in part B. When installed, the shade should just cover the socket.

Give all parts a final sanding. Apply a coat of Watco Danish Oil and while wet rub on a coat of Minwax Ebony stain. The result is an attractive antique look.