Woodworker's Journal 1982-6-6, страница 38

Old-Time Radio Case (cont'd)

wood screw. Paint the knobs dark brown or black. Drill mounting holes for the knobs at the positions indicated on the plan.

Another part that will vary depending on your use of the case is the speaker board (G). Make part G out of a piece of Vi" plywood. Cut the speaker board so it will fit inside the case butted against the inside of the front (A). If you're not installing a speaker, you don't need to cut any holes in part G. Just cover the front of part G with dark brown or black grill cloth from an electronics supply store. In the area of the speaker board that will be behind the station indicator window, cut away the grill cloth. Cut out the paper station indicator on the full-size pattern. (If you don't want to cut up your copy of The Woodworker's Journal, make a photocopy). Use rubber cement to glue the paper to the speaker board where it will show through the window. Cover the paper with a piece of clear contact paper to protect it. The speaker board is held in place with four #6 brass flat head wood screws as indicated on the full-size pattern.

To install a speaker, hold it in place on the board and trace around it. Position the speaker so it will not interfere with the speaker board screws. If the speaker is too large to miss the screw positions, leave a projection of wood in the speaker hole for the screw to attach to (see examples of 5 inch and 8 inch speaker cut-outs). Remove the speaker and draw a circle V* " inside the traced line. Use a saber saw to cut along the inside line. Drill holes in the speaker board that correspond to the mounting holes in the speaker. Countersink the holes on the side of part G that faces part A. The speaker is held in place by flat head machine screws and nuts. Cover the front of part G with grill cloth.

When all the holes are drilled and the speaker board is removed from the case, you can apply the finish. Since tastes have changed over the years, most modern finishes won't look very authentic on this project. The originals were usually finished with a dark varnish/stain. The closest thing I've found to the original is Super-Tex Britenal spray varnish/stain #B-804 which is marketed by Sprouse Reitz Co. Super-Tex Britenal #B-803 Walnut is also a close match. Some of the darker colors of Deft spray lacquer/stain also look similar to the original finish.

Once the finish is dry, install the speaker board and any other components. If you're using the dummy knobs, attach them with screws from the inside of the case. Screw the back in place and you're ready to enjoy Fibber Magee and Molly (if you have a tape!).