Woodworker's Journal 1982-6-6, страница 42

Oak Hanging

Photo by Author

Anyone who has gone shopping for light fixtures knows that you can pay a small fortune for anything that is in the least decorative. We faced that problem recently when looking for a fixture with at least a little wood in it to go in our new dining room addition. The room has stained oak trim, much like our new kitchen cabinets which were part of the same project. We priced a few fixtures close to what we had in mind, and after recovering my composure, I decided to make my own.

This fixture also uses ordinary 60 watt household bulbs which are much cheaper to replace than the decorative ones required in so many light fixtures. All electrical parts and other materials are common hardware and lumber store items. Total cost should be around twenty dollars. When compared to the hundred dollars and up you'll pay for anything similar, this fixture is a real bargain.

Start by cutting out all the pieces. Grain should run horizontally around the arms and vertically up the main body of the fixture. Give each part a thorough sanding, taking particular care to remove any planer marks. Do not round corners or edges at this time.

Start assembly on the main body (parts A & B) of the fixture. Use a good quality woodworker's glue on all joints. Be careful not to smear any on the outside surfaces as that will seal the pores and the wood won't accept stain in that spot. After the bottom (part F) piece is mounted, the body is ready to be "bullnosed" or rounded at the edges. This can be done using a router or shaper with a W radius bit. Round all except the top edges of this five-sided box.

Now determine which pieces of the arm assemblies (parts C, D, & E) go where and round all the lower edges, inside and out, using a V* inch radius bit. Also round the exposed ends of each side piece for the arms (part C). Be careful not to round edges that butt against other parts or the upper edges of the arms.

Before assembling the arms of the fixture you should mount the moldings (H) that go around the inside to hold the translucent plastic panels (G) in place. Miter each end to the correct length; mount one on the face of the fixture body and the other three on the inside surfaces of the arm pieces. Mount them Vt inch above the bottom edge of part D (Vt inch above part C) using wood glue.

Part E, which provides a strong method for securing the arm assembly to the body, has two countersunk mounting holes for #8 by V* inch flat head wood screws. Add glue to one side, then secure part E to the body with the two wood

Light Fixture

screws. Later, all other parts of the arm assembly will be supported by part E, so make sure it's properly located on the body.

Locate and mount the porcelain sockets to part E as shown. It should be as high as possible without letting the bulb show over the arm side. With the bulb I used, the dimension to the centerline of the socket is 1 Vi inches (see drawing). This will allow room for circulation and prevent the bulb heat from damaging the plastic panels (G). To keep heat to a minimum, don't use a bulb larger than 60 watt.

Just above the wire terminals drill two Vt inch holes through parts E and the body (parts A and B). Using U.L. approved 16 gauge (heavy) lamp cord, pass the cord through these holes and wire the sockets as shown. Be sure to leave enough length to weave the wire through the fixture chain with at least 6 inches extra for the hook-up. Take your time and do a neat and careful job. Sloppy wiring causes fires. If you are not experienced in electrical work, have a licensed electrician do it for you.

Next, assemble part D to C. Use glue and clamp firmly. When dry, part C can be glued to part E, again using clamps. Be sure to add glue to the ends of part C and make sure there is good contact between C and the body. Allow to dry, then remove clamps and drill for 3/16 inch diameter dowel pins to reinforce parts D and E.

If you aren't ready to quit for the day, now would be a good time to cut your plastic panels. If you have the type that is widely used in flourescent light fixtures you will find that it is brittle and will chip and crack if not cut properly. The easiest way would be to use a band saw with a fine tooth blade. I cut mine on a table saw without too much difficulty. Set the blade height so it just barely cuts through, then hold a block of scrap wood on top of the material directly over the blade while pushing it through with the other hand. Do not place your hand directly over the blade, grasp the block a few inches before it, and don't forget your safety glasses. If you don't have a band saw or a table saw, you can cut the material with a circular saw. Just provide a solid backing, like a piece of scrap plywood, and set the blade to just cut through the plastic. Cut the panels a little smaller than the inside dimensions of the fixture arms so they go in easily.

Give the entire piece a final sanding before finishing. I used Tungseal Dark Oak oil base stain and spray lacquer.

Now connect the chain to the steel strip as shown. Weave the lampcord through the chain and run it through the center hole of the fixture plate. Get someone to help hold the fixture while you connect the wiring and screw the fixture plate into your ceiling box. Note the grounding instructions on the drawing. Install the plastic panels and the bulbs (maximum 60 watts). Stand back, admire a job well done and take someone out to dinner with the money you've saved.

Bill of Materials (All Dimensions Actual)

Bill of Materials (All Dimensions Actual)