Woodworker's Journal 1983-7-1, страница 18
Restoring Antiques build it yourself and save ENTERTAINMENT CENTER Our easy plans c Individual piece drawings Complete list of materials Detailed instructions Complete kit • Detailed assembly instructions • Pre-sanded • Dovetail joinery • Hardware 72l':"H x 28' :"W x 17"D $10.00 (Includes Shipping) Wl residents add 5% Sales tax Complete Catalog $1.00 $159.00 (FOB Factory) WOOD' N CREATIONS, Dept. wji-3 630 State St. / Marinette, wi 54143 BUILD YOURSELF A BEAUTIFUL LYRE BANJO CLOCK WITH FULL SIZE PLAN Carefully detailed - carving simplified by instructions. Materials list included. Styled authentically from an original. Full size drawings of major parts can be used as pattern. Photos, f & s, $1.00 ea. SASE photos. Plans $17.00 per set. Dameron's Plans P.O. Box 128 Burlington, NC 27215 H = 391/4" Are your fingers worth $5 apiece? RIPSTRATE™ could save them! Fair Price Tool Company | Box 627-J2, 1860 Foothill, La Canada, CA 91011 jPlease send me your new catalog. Enclosed Is $1.00, refundable. I Name_Address_ I | City_State_Zip_ by John W. Olson Selecting Clear Finishes Whether you are restoring a 150 year old antique cupboard or building a brand-new kitchen stepstool, chances are it's going to need some sort of clear final finish. In fact, just about all unpainted wood projects require this finishing step. It helps protect the wood against dirt, abrasion, and to some extent, denting. In some cases it's used to "bring out the grain" or add "shine". Most importantly though, a clear final finish acts as a sealant, thereby minimizing problems caused by wood swelling and shrinking with changes in humidity. There are a great many of these products on the market, so selection of any single one can sometimes be a confusing and frustrating experience. I'll cover the most commonly encountered types in a general sort of way so as to try to aid you when you begin your selection. Modern lacquers give excellent results but should be applied only with spray equipment. Most require five to eight coats to obtain a really good, deep finish. But lacquers hold little attraction for the home craftsman because acrylics and polyurethanes are much easier to apply and require only two or three coats to obtain comparable results. Polyurethanes and acrylics can be applied by brush or the spray gun. Most of them level very nicely and are scuff, heat, water and alcohol resistant. My favorite is an acrylic sold by Benjamin Moore called Moore's "Four-Hour Finish". With careful planning it is possible to apply three coats of this material in one day, which greatly facilitates production. You can rub down and wax the next morning. Polyurethane has the disadvantage of slow drying - most brands require 24 hours between coats. I use it almost exclusively for tool handles and similar jobs. Those finishes which polymerize (Watco and Deks Olje are two) are perhaps the easiest of all to apply. If the matte finish that results from one application isn't acceptable, a second and even a third coat applied at two or three day intervals gives a dull sheen that can be enhanced with a coat of wax. These finishes penetrate deep into the wood and then polymerize, that is, they become solid and actually increase the surface hardness of the wood. They may also be used as a primer or first coat under polyurethane finishes. While shellac was once a popular finish, it is little used today. Properly made-up and applied, it gives a more than acceptable surface. Shellac, from the modern point of view, has some serious disadvantages. It is relatively hard and brittle, and scratches easier than modern finishes. It is heat sensitive, and water in any form causes white stains and halos. Worst of all it is soluble in alcohol, so if you spill your gin and tonic, the finish will start to dissolve. Shellac, like lacquer, should never be applied with a brush if spray equipment is available. These quick drying materials do not allow brushing-over or lapping of brush strokes. Old-fashioned varnish is based on boiled linseed oil and Japan driers plus various other additives used by the manufacturers. These finishes are still used by antique restorers where authenticity is necessary. The tried and true method for a good varnish finish is to apply a primer of shellac or sanding sealer, then sand with very fine paper before applying two or three coats of varnish. Rub down between each coat. Sanding sealer, as the name implies, is designed to seal the wood surface. It is easily sanded because it does not clog sandpaper. It makes an excellent undercoat as long as it is compatible with the final finish. 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