Woodworker's Journal 1983-7-3, страница 7

Regarding the plans for the Cheval Mirror in the March/April 1983 issue, the method shown for joining the frame bottom (part C) has an inherent weakness. The entire weight of the mirror and back (part G) will be borne by the frame bottom. There will be constant stress on the glue joint where the frame side (part A) tenons fit into the frame bottom mortises. Two possible solutions are:

1. Drill a hole from front to back at each mortise and tenon joint to accept dowel pins. This would add strength without significantly altering the design.

2. Cut the mortises into the frame sides and tenons into the frame bottom.

With the method I suggest, should the glue give out, the dowel pin or tenon would prevent the joint from giving away completely.

Richard Hodgkins, Fitchburg, Mass.

How do 1 make a tack rag?

Wm. F, Schreck, Massapequa, N.Y.

John Olson replies: Take about a square yard of cheesecloth or other soft, thin cotton material and dampen well with water, then wring out. With the rag squeezed into a ball, apply about one half ounce of varnish thinner with turpentine or mineral spirits. Work it well until the hall is of a uniform color when unfolded. When not in use, keep the tack rag in a well-sealed glass jar to prevent it from drying out. If the rag does dry out, it can be revived with a few drops of turpentine and water.

Referring to "The Beginning Woodworker" column in the March/April 1983 issue, I'd like to comment on the instructions illustrated in Fig. 3 on page 20. Setting the miter gauge angle by using a drafting triangle or protractor against the sawblade presumes two very fundamental facts that are not necessarily true in all saws. They are: A, the blade has no wobble and B, the sawblade mounting is set so that the blade is parallel to the groove in the table. If A or B (or both) is not so, it can drive a beginner up the wall, especially if there is a wobble in the blade.

Being not too long from being a

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