Woodworker's Journal 1983-7-4, страница 20

Woodworker

MAKE

TOYS

Plans and kits for all types of wooden toys. Hardwood wheels, pegs, dowels, people, smokestacks, cams, balls, rope, etc. CATALOG $1.00

Cfietry Tree Toys Belmont. OH (3718 514/481-1746

cW MOST UNIQUE CONCEPT ^ IN WOODWORKING PLANS

NEW INGENIOUS METHOD ENABLES YOU TO EASILY BUILD BEAUTIFUL FUBNITUHE TO YOUB CUSTOM SIZES AND STYLE! MACHINEO PARTS AVAILABLE TO MAKE YOUB OWN RAISED PANEL DOORS Sf."st .00 fot Brochure

c

Custom Furniture Systems

Oeot JF WO I Hlin« flw fleodt r>g fie, 1960^

WOODWORKERS VISE

RAPID ACTING OR CONTINUOUS SCREW

MADE IN U S A SINCE 1899 SEND FOR fflEE BROCHURE

ABERNATHY VISE CO.

P O BOX 309. VILLA PARK. IL 601A1

(312)832 7676

BIRDHOUSES

• f (III Sill PATTERNS-

Attractive new bird hau<m and Icfdrfs, Expert -ly design ret to attract Wrens, Martins. Rob etc, Easily nwJf. Full si w patterns arid directions. Only *6.00. Prepaid I si class.

MASTERCRAFT PUNS WEST. DEPT.^tew PO Bo* 625, Redmond. WA 98052

ATTENTION:

FLORIDA WOODWORKERS

We have Florida's laigest selection oi exolc .I'll native turd and soil woods, table slatis veneers, etc tot the professional and novice Send SSAE for list

HENEGAN'S WOOD SHED

7/SO Southern BhrtJ IWJI W«l Film Bracti FL 3MI Call (305) 793-1 SS7

EC

Hzzn

Do-it-Yourself

SAVE VAST SUMS Build, restore, re-fmish anything ot wood' Here's everything you need Fine woods, veneers, specialty tools. Cabinet hardware, period & modern Pro Ifn- __

ishes Cane Lamp parts Uphol supplies Picture moldings Clock kits. 100 s oi plans. Instruction books Thousands ol hard-to-find woodworker products m big new catalog Mail ad for Catalog & 20 ktenlified beauti^i Wood Samples

CONSTANTINI fm, 1811

2044 Eastchesler float). Bioni. N.Y. 10461 □ I!erc\ "SI. VnJ Ift4 pace Wood»oHter ( atilo|» aqh, "j S2 vnctuscd. Si-nd WtKidMiirker t jijIoi; and 20 Wood

Humpies. SI.51) refunded tin Kt < alatot; order,

Name

The Beginning Woodworker

Dovetail Joints: Part One Cutting the Single Dovetail

The dovetail joint has been considered a hallmark of tine cabinetwork for centuries, and for good reason. In terms of strength and visual appeal it's a superb joint. Unfortunately, many novice woodworkers look upon this joint, particularly in its multiple forms, as some sort of ultimate test of woodworking skill. Actually, most forms of the joint are no more difficult than the mortise and shouldered tenon joint.

There are many variations of the dovetail joint; each of which is suited to a particular application. The simplest form is the single through dovetail shown in Fig. 1. This is simple to

make, and the much admired multiple version is more difficult only in the sense that it takes longer to execute and the chances for a bad cut are increased.

Successful dovetailing, like all other joinery, is the result of practice. The best approach for the novice is to practice cutting a few single dovetails with hand tools. Once the single version has been mastered, the multiple forms will seem much less formidable.

Practice with both hard and soft woods. A few sessions will give you a feel for the work and the confidence to substitute these joints in projects where less efficient or attractive joints are shown in the plans.

Starting with the basic through dovetail, we can see that it is a "through" joint because both parts go completely through each other. This joint is excellent for joining two narrow boards at right angles. It can be pulled apart in only one direction though the addition of glue makes the joint very-secure. A locking dowel pin through both members guarantees that the joint will not pull apart, even if the glue fails.

Before laying out this joint (or any other dovetail joint), several important preliminary steps must be taken, The joining boards must be dressed flat and square and they should also be

sanded before joining. We must also decide on the proper amount of flair of the dovetail sides and half-pins and how to space them. The flair or angle of the dovetails has been determined through trial and error centuries ago. Too little angle lessens the security of the joint, while too great an angle invites breaking off of the sharp dovetail corners.

The most practical choice is an angle of about 80 degrees or, expressing it another way, a taper of 1 to 6. A bevel square can be used to mark the dovetail angles and pin sides. Set the bevel square to 80 degrees with a protractor or to a 1 to 6 taper by marking perpendicular lines on a piece of scrap. The vertical line is divided into six equal parts (for our example, let's use inches as a unit) and the horizontal line is marked at a point one inch from the intersection of the lines (Fig. 2).

r

-- - Jtfi

e * tfVt

-

lAYtPv ruNEsyr' r

|

ti- 6*

f 1

----—r H U

E J ^

Fl&t.Z

Fl&t.Z

SETV1N6 BEAJEI-S^WRE. fis*^ 1 Ti) 6 AM&UE (6o DEGREES)

The bevel square is held against the edge of the scrap and the blade is set to intersect the points as shown. To save yourself the bother of going through this procedure for every project, it's heipful to make a simple template as shown in Fig. 3.

R&, 3

■SCKI&H& PIN ANGLES WITH A TEMPLATE.

Dealing as we are with a single dovetail, spacing isn't much of a problem but it is visually important when multiple dovetails are involved. Generally, the dovetails should be at least three times wider than the pins; measuring the widest part of each. It's always best to avoid having the tails and