Woodworker's Journal 1984-8-3, страница 46

Oak and Glass End Table

by Tim Sykes

Good proportions plus the handsome look of oak and glass combine to give this relatively simple piece a great deal of appeal. And even though the joinery is basic, the table is very sturdy so you can expect it to provide many years of service. Its simplicity makes it a good weekend project, one that even beginners can tackle with confidence.

The legs (part A) can be made first. Readers will note that parts A are paired together, each pair joined by a 45 degree miter joint. We've worked out a method that makes it easy to do this. Needed are four pieces of ^s/« in. thick stock, each one measuring 3'/i in. wide by 16 in. long. Referring to fig. 1, set the table saw blade to a 45 degree angle and locate the rip fence as shown. Miter one edge (step A), then turn the stock and miter the other edge (step B).

The saw blade must be exactly at 45 degrees because even a small error adds up to a noticeable gap when the four joints are assembled later on. To check the accuracy of your sawblade angle, it's a good idea to first make a test square from scrap stock. Rip four pieces as described above (the length need only be about 6 in.), then dry assemble using elastic bands to hold the four sides together. The joints should meet perfectly; if not, adjust the blade angle and try again.

Once the four pieces of stock have been mitered, apply glue to each mitered surface and apply three web

clamps: one at each end and one in the middle. If you don't have web clamps, heavy tape can be used, but you must be sure to pull the joints together snugly for a good glue joint. Once clamped, set aside to dry thoroughly.

When dry, the box is ready to be ripped into four pieces (see fig. 2). Set the rip fence so that it will cut the stock exactly down the middle, then raise the sawblade to a height of about V* in. With the stock held firmly against the rip fence, make cut number 1, then flip the stock over and make cut number 2. Cut number 2 splits the stock in half, then each half is split down the middle with the rip fence remaining in the same position. Except for sanding, work on the legs is now complete.

Next, the four long stretchers (parts

B) and the four short stretchers (parts

C) are cut to the dimensions shown in the bilJ of materials. Cut each one slichtlv loneer than necessarv. then

use the table saw to apply a 45 degree miter on each end while cutting to final length. As with the earlier miter joints, the angle must be perfect.

Two frames are now assembled, each one made up of two long stretchers (parts B) and two short stretchers (parts C). Unlike the leg (part A) miter joints, the miters on the ends of parts B and C are closely related to an end grain joint, so the oak really soaks up the glue. It's a good idea to apply one coat, let it soak in, then add a second coat. This technique, called "sizing", will result in a stronger glue joint. Once the glue has been applied, assemble the four parts using a web clamp to hold everything together. Check for squareness, making adjustments if necessary, then set aside to dry.

The two frames can now be joined to the legs. Apply glue to the corner of the frame, then join to the leg with a pair of 1'/« in. long by no. 8 flat head wood screws (parts E), each one counterbored and covered with wood plugs (parts F). Once the frames have been added, the posts (parts D) can be cut to size and glued in place as shown.

The entire piece can now be sanded and given two coats of a good penetrating oil. To complete the project, have a glass shop cut the '/« in. thick plate glass to size. Note that the bottom glass (part G) has the corners cut to fit inside the posts (parts D). Sharp edges are obviously a hazard, so be sure to have the glass shop polish them smooth. Vtwj

Bill of Materials.

Bill of Materials.