Woodworker's Journal 1985-9-6, страница 67
II you've just made the router table on page 47 of this issue and are looking for a good router-built project on which to sharpen your newfound skills, here it is. This elegant little wall cabinet, crafted in poplar by Ernie Conover, is perfect for any small space. It can be a spice cabinet in the kitchen, a storage cabinet for VCR lapes in the family room, or perhaps a spot for assorted toiletries in the bathroom. The Case Start with the case. We use a simple rabbet-and-dado construction to join the sides (A) to the lop (Bl and bottom (C). This joint (the dado in the sides and the rabbet on the ends of the top and bottom) is easily cut on the rouler table. Also, cut the 'A in. deep by 7J in. wide dado in the sides for the fixed shelf (D). and bore the holes for the shelf support dowels. Note that the w idth of the bottom includes an extra 7-» in. to fill out the space between the bottom ends of the face frame, and that the fixed shelf is 7-» in. inset from the back edge of the ease, to allow for the plywood back (F). With ail these parts (except the back) cut. apply glue and clamp the case. Once dry. mount a 7s in. bearing-guided rabbeting bit in your router, and establish the 7-» in. deep rabbet for ihe plywood back. Switch to the edge guide and a straight bit lo continue the rabbet along ihe area where the fixed shell prevents the bearing-guided bit from passing, then cut ihe back to size and glue and screw it in place. We show the back as square-cornered, but it's usually a bii easier to round the corners of the back to match the radius in the rabbet corners, rather than squaring up llie rabbet corners w ith chisel work. Next, make the face frame, consisting of the stiles (G) and upper and lower mils ill, l|. Your new router table is ideal tor mortise and tenon work such as this. Use a ih in. diameter siraighi bit. the fence, and sel up stops to limit ihe length of the mortise cuts. We show the tenons as square-cornered, but you'll save some time if you jusl round the corners of the tenons to match ihe rounded ends of your router-cut mortises, rather than chopping out ihe mortise corners to square w ith a 7* in. chisel. Glue and assemble ihe face frame, check with a framing square, and set aside to dry. Once the face frame is out ol clamps, position it on the case front, and use a sharp pencil or a marking knife lo scnlv marks from the bottom ends of the stiles lo ihe Case bottom. A dovetail saw is the ideal tool for notching back the front corners of the bottom to acccpl the stiles. Slay just inside (on the waste sidel of your scribed line. You can always pare back the wood, bui if you cut away too much you'll end up with unsightly gaps. To complete the case, add the side and from moldings (J. K), cut and fit the drawer guides iL). and cut as many shelves (El as your needs require. The molding we show is a solid crown profile, but other similar moldings w ill serve equally well. The Door and Drawer Bo(h the door and drawer use the same hasic construction as ihose on ihe router table cabinet. Stick the molded edge on the stiles (Mi and rails (Nl. then cope the rail ends (see Slick and Cope Doorbuilding. page 20 tor details). Cut your door panel (Ol lo size, mold the ends and edges to create the raised panel, then assemble the stiles and rails around the panel. Use glue on the frame but not on the panel. Small brads, centered on the panel and inserted into the rails, w ill equalize any movement in NWmber/Dttembcr 1992 67 Router-built Wall Cabinet the panel from side lo side. The drawer shown uses a common groove and dado joint lo join the front <P) and sides <Q). and a dado anil rabbet to join the sides and hack (R). The plywood bottom iS) is slid into place from the back, and anchored with a screw into the bottom edge of ihe drawer back. Details The cabinet in the photo uses a simple tumbutton (Tl to hold (he door closed. The knobs < U > are turned from Tagua nuts (see sidehar). A pair of small hinges (V) mounts the door. |
