Woodworker's Journal 1986-10-4, страница 6

Letters

In a recent Shoptalk column (March/April 1986), Jim McQuillan talked about the need for caution when using potentially hazardous finishing products. A friend of mine knows the hazards full well. He was using a cleaning solvent and, in the course of his work, managed to get some on his hands and clothes. Before cleaning up he needed to use his electric drill, but when he pulled the trigger the solvent vapors ignited, apparently caused by a spark in the electric motor of the drill. He ended up in the burn unit of our hospital. He's okay and very lucky to be alive.

Any spark or open flame can cause an explosion of flammable vapors. Stoves, heaters, cigarettes, pilot lights, and electric motors (your furnace has one) are a few of the potential culprits. To be safe, do all your finishing outside where vapors can't build up.

Gene Wager, Valley Fails, N.Y.

In your clock project articles, you

rarely mention any company except Mason and Sullivan. There are other companies with good reputations that furnish fine clock movements. Two of them are S. LaRose, Inc., 234 Commerce Place, Greensboro, NC 27420 (catalog S2.50) and Merritt's Antiques, Inc., R.D. 2, Douglassviile, PA 19518 (catalog SI.50).

John Mullen, Berne, N.Y.

I want to compliment you on the fine story and plans you provided for the Early American Tall Clock featured in your November/December 1985 issue. I built it as a Christmas gift for my daughter and it turned out beautifully. Rather than purchase the dial face, I had a friend paint a dial in the color my daughter likes.

Joseph G. Mclntyre, Jr.

New Canaan, Conn.

We have just purchased a 1917Stuze fire engine that we are starting to restore. It has wooden wheels which seem to be solid oak. The wheels are in great shape, but they have dried out over the years and have not been treated with any preservative, sealant

or paint. We would like to get them back into top condition for the longest possible life. Can you help?

Butler Park Fire Co.

Washington, N.J.

Editor's Note: John Olson, who writes our Restoring Antiques column, will handle this one.

I would suggest that the first order of business would he to disassemble the wheels and give all parts a good cleaning. Remove the old finish, if any, from both wood and metal parts.

If the wood spokes are loose, they will need to be tightened. I once had a 1923 Model T Ford with wooden spoked wheels and the air in west Texas was exceedingly dry. The spokes would get so loose that they squeaked when turning corners. The cure was to remove the wheels and soak them overnight in a washtub full of water. Since this isn't always a permanent cure, something else might work such as Chair-toe brand compound. This liquid synthetic is applied in very small holes in the ends of the spokes. It polymerizes, so strength is not affected and it also causes the wood to swell.

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6 The Woodworker's Journal