Woodworker's Journal 1992-16-5, страница 65

Woodworker

Better quality and new features add up to more buzz for the buck

by Jim Barren

It's an old saw. but true: the table saw is the heart of the wmid-worker's shop. And for man> of us, nothing less than a full-size stationary machine with plenty of power and an acre of table surface w ill do. Then there are guys like me who simply can't find the shop space for even a modest sized floor model. My small backyard shop consists mainly of shelves and cabinets for temporary storage of the various tools and other products tested for reviews such as this one. leaving precious little space for my own woodworking tools and machinery. As a result. I've come to rely on my little Ryobi BT-2500 benchtop saw. along with other scaled-down benchtop tools and portable power tools, to do my woodworking. If. like me, you can't sacrifice the space for a full-sized table saw, a benchtop model just might be the ticket. And, if you think all benchtop table saws are underpowered toys used for building doll-house furniture, many of the new ones on the market may change your mind.

l or this article. I tested nine units offered by the major tool manufacturers and importers, as shown in photos. Two saws 1 did not test were the 10 in. Delta 36-510 and the 8'A in. Makila 2708W. A Taiwanese-made saw-, the Delta is nearly identical lo the Reliant, pictured. Reliant, by the way, is the proprietary name of Trend-lines (see Sources). The Makita is a lightweight (37,5 lb.) saw w ith a 12-amp motor.

Pros and Cons of Benchtop Saws

The obvious advantages of benchtop table saws are their compact size and relatively light weight. Most weigh between 4(1 and 60 pounds, making them easih transportable by one person. A few tip the scales beyond the point of

September Akiober 1992

calling them truly portable, though (see chart on page 68).

They're usually called benchtop saws, but "saw horse saws" might be a more accurate description, because the workbenches in most shops are loo high to use them comfortably. I've mounted mine on a piece of plywood, which I clamp to a couple of sawhorses out in the back yard. Some woodworkers, such as my editor Dave Peters, have built stands that put the saw table at a comfortable working height. Dave tells me that the saw is still light enough so he can move it outdoors as needed. By sizing the table so his benchtop saw is at the same height as his stationary saw. Dave adds that with the two saws positioned back-to-back. each saw doubles as an outfeed table for the other. If you equip the stand wiih locking or retractable castors, you can easily roll it out of the way when not in use. Most manufacturers offer metal work stands or leg sets for their bench-top saws.

During my tests. I noticed that most of the saws are heavy enough that you needn't clamp or bolt them to the bench or other flat work surface when cutting relatively small pieces of stock. 1 wouldn't advise this practice, though: The owner's manuals tell you to mount the saw as a safety precaution, so who am I to argue? Besides, if you try to run large boards or panels through these saws while freestanding, they'll definitely Lake a walk. To retain the portability feature, mount the saw on a piece of 7* in. (or thicker) plywood (slightly larger than the base cabinet), and clamp it to the work surface with C-clamps. A square cutout in the plywood base keeps sawdust from piling up inside the saw.

Drawbacks — Many of these saws have a surprising amount of power for their size, bul you still can't expect them to perform like a stationary tabic saw. Because ihey have smaller motors than most stationary models, they're less able to plow through heavy slock without bogging down. Also, their lighter-weight blade-carriage assemblies lack the precision and smooth operation ot those found on most floor models And. of course, on most of the saws, the smaller table size not only limits their rip

capacity, but also pro\ides less support for large boards or sheet goods. Tw-o exceptions to this are the Makita 2711 and the Ryobi BT-3000. whose sliding rail systems actually yield greater rip capacity than many stationary saws.

Better Benchtops

Over the past few years, benchtop table saws have improved in many respects. Not long ago, the market seemed to be flooded with "under S15II" models, most of which were being imported from overseas. The prices certainly appealed lo budget-minded weekend warriors, hut most of these saws were underpowered and lacked the overall sophistication and accuracy required for exacting work. In short, they didn't cut it with most woodworkers—hobbyist or professional. As a result, sales declined as tool returns increased, so most manufacturers and importers have either dropped these "toy table saws" or have redesigned their benchtop models to better meet customer expectations. Today, even the low-end saws are considerably better than their predecessors.

Apples and Oranges—The nine saws I reviewed range in price from under $140. to nearly $600. As you might guess. I found some differences in power, cutting precision, and overall quality. While you can'i expect a low-end benchtop saw to perform like a high-end one. the price you can afford to pay for any tool is always a consideration. If most of your woodworking revolves around the table saw, buy the best you can afford—stationary or benchtop—even if il means skimping on the cost of other woodworking u*>ls and equipment. If. on the other hand, you use a table saw only occasionally, or for smaller-scale projects, one of the less-expensive models will do.

Also lake into account the type work you do on a table saw. For example, the sliding tables on the Ryobi BT-3000 and Makita 2711 make them double-duty saws lor ripping and crosscutting stock, which could potentially eliminate the need lor a radial-arm saw or power miter saw in your shop. They're also among the heaviest of the benchtop saws, so they're not quite as easy to pick up and

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