Woodworker's Journal 1993-17-2, страница 32
puvwiscts ljlwnatieu The Lattice There are eighi identical lattice panels on our arbor. The Chippendale style panels aren't hard to build, once you are set up. All the work is done on the table saw. As the Bill of Materials shows, the lattice consists of Ihe frame parts (D). long strips (E). medium strips (Ft and short strips (G). A pair of filler strips (H) fills out the space at the corner where the top and side lattice panels meet. To make the lattice, first rip sufficient stock for the various size parts. You'll need only two sizes for the panels themselves—the 3/< in. by l'/- in. frame stock, and the in. square stock from which the strips are all cut. As the Lattice Detail shows, the lattice frame is constructed so the two long strips, which half-lap at the center of the panel, extend through the frame corners. You'll need to use a triangular push block and a pair of clamps (see Fig. I) to support the frame stock as you cut the notches in the frame ends. Your dado head should be set to a 3/4 in. width and a Vs in. depth of cut for this operation. Once your frame parts arc cut. it's just a matter of cutting the various strips to length, cutting the 45-degree miters on the ends, and cutting the various half-laps by which the strips are joined. Note that there's a double miter on the ends of the long strips, since they extend through the frame at the corners. Of course, the easiest way to cut the strips and make the half-laps is to set up stops on the saw table and cut all like parts with the same setting. There are four identical short strips for each panel, and 32 four identical medium strips. However the two long strips on each lattice panel are not quite identical, since on one long strip the three half-laps are all on the same side, while on the remaining long strip the center half-lap is on the opposite side of the two other half-laps. Although we give you specific lengths and notch locations for ihe lattice strips (see Latticc Dciaill. any number of factors—such as a shghl variation in the thickness of your latticc strips—can affect these dimensions. Your best bet is to make a sample lattice panel first, which will enable you to fine-tune all your table saw si-tups and get them just right—before you actually go to work cutting the lattice parts. Whatever adjustments you make hi the lattice, keep in mind that the one thing you don't want lo change is the overall 23 in. by 23 in. square size of the lattice panels. It's important for the panels to be sized properly if everything is to lit together as intended. The lattice assembly is a simple matter. We used brass brads and waterproof glue at all joints. The brads help to hold the parts in position as the glue dries, A simple shop built framing jig (just several cleats nailed to a section of plywood) will come in handy for squaring up and assembling the lattice panels. The purpose of the jig is to hold everything square and keep it from moving around as you do the assembly. Once your eight lattice panels are complete, you can mount them to the frame. I sing stainless steel screws, mount the six side panels directly to the posts. The two top panels are screwed to the stretchers, and the filler strips fill in the sp;n. c where ihe top and side panels meet. The Seal In addition to the seat supports, the seat consists of the frame ends and center (J), the frame front and back (K) and the scat boards (L). The frame parts are all I ]/2 in. thick by 2V» in. wide stock; the boards are all 17s in. thick by 7'A in. wide. Assemble the frame with stainless steel screws, bolt the frame to the supports, then mount the seat boards with stainless steel screws. Countersink all the screw heads. Finish We don't recommend a finish. We've yet to see a clear finish that has true paint-like durability on outdoor furniture. However, arbors such as this look great painted white, or just about any other color—or combination thereof— that suits your fancy. BEBI The Woodworker's Journal |
