Woodworker's Journal 1993-17-2, страница 34
The center section is a uniform turning. lJ/4 in. in diameter. Vou may own a router/lathe fluting jig—and this would be fine for fluting the center—but we've worked out a simple method that enables you to do the fluting on your router table with a 7« in. diameter core-box bit and an easy-to-make shop built jig. As shown in the f luting Detail, the jig is essentially just a cradle to securc the center as it's passed across the core-box bit. You can construct the cradlc exactly as we have, or use w hatever scraps you have handy. The important things to remember are that the inside length of the jig must be 77* in., to fit the center length, and that your bit height must include not only the '/g in. flute depth but also the thickness of the jig bottom. Since our jig bottom was 7* in. plywood. our bit depth totaled out to -/» in. Of course, you'll need to locate the fence (which the cradle guides against) so the core-box bit is on-center with the jig end. As the Fluting Detail also shows, you'll need to drill for a screw and brad in each end of the jig. Drill these holes, then scribe flute location lines (45 degrees apart) on one end of the center, and mark an index line on-center on one end of the jig as a way lo line up the flute lines. Once you've done all this, ihe fluting is fairly simple. Line up a flute location line with the index line, tighlen the screws and tap the brad in to lock the position of the center in the cradle, then just pass the cradle across the core-box bit. For the initial pass, you'll want to make a first cut through the plywood, then reset ihe bit lo final height and rout the flute. To rout subsequent flutes, jusl back off the brad, rotate the center 45 degrees so the next flute line is aligned wilh the index line, and repeal the procedure. Once your flutes are done, you'll need to drill for the tenons and cord hole (we suggest that you use a drill press for this). Most long hits should handle the 7» in. diameter holes through the top and bottom. But. the tenon and cord holes in the center are a several-step procedure. Start by using a Forstner bit to drill the V* in. diameter by in. deep tenon holes, then switch to the 7« in. diameter bit. and drill the cord hole in from each end. Don't worry if the holes don't meet perfectly, you can always enlarge the hole enough for the cord to pass through. 34 The Base Purls The base parts the top |D>. center (E) and bottom (I i are cut to the indicated sizes, then the lop and center are rounded wilh 7" in. and 7« in. radius roundover bits, respectively. Drill through all three parts with the 7* in, diameter bit, then roul or chisel a groove in the bottom lor the cord to evil out the side. Test assemble, then liti.il sand the wood parts. Assembly If your lest assembly fits well, thread ihe cord (K) through the wood parts one-by one. then use epoxy lo glue the pans together. Epoxy the threaded nipple (G) into the top of the lamp, leav ing enough exposed to securely mount ihe neck (I), harp (H) and socket (J >. Finish Now's a good time to apply your finish. We brushed on a white oil-based primer, wiped most of the paint off, lei dry. added a paste wax and finally buffed with a soft cloth. Mount the remaining hardware, make your electrical connections. add the shade (L) and finial (M). and your lamp is complete. iVJi
34 The Woodworker's Journal |
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