Woodworker's Journal 1993-17-2, страница 42

This charming piece is a scaled-down version of the 7 li. high Early American Tall C 'lock that we featured way hack in out November/ December IMX5 issue. Mr. Harry M. Wilson of Tupuln. Mississippi liked that design, but wanted lo make u in a size better suited for Ins iwo young grand

daughters, He built one for each of them and. as you might imagine, the clocks were a big hit. Harry was kind enough to send plans and a photo along to us, and we liked the idea so much, we built one (with minor modifications) in our shop.

Our clock was given an antique finish (see page 47). so we used poplar to cut

Grandchild's

Clock

down on cost. However, if you prefer a stained or a clear finish, we'd suggest cherry, walnut, mahogany, or even pine. It doesn't matter much what wood or finish you use, though, as this project will soon become a family heirloom.

We used a battery-powered quartz movement that plays a full Westminster chime melody on the hour, a partial melody each quarter hour, and strikes out each hour. It features a volume control, chime silencer and automatic night silencer, so you have plenty of sound control. Like many antique clocks, the hood simply slides off the case to provide access to the movement. To simplify ordering, we asked the mail-order company Klockii to put together a parts kit for the movement, dial face and other hardware (see Sources).

Make the Base

Start with the front (A). It can be difficult to find 12 in. wide slock, so you'll probably need lo edge-glue two or three narrower hoards in order to get the necessary width. When cutting boards for edge-gluing, it's best to cut them so the glued-up slock will be a bit wider and longer than necessary After gluing, ihe front will be trimmed to the length and width dimensions shown in the Bill of Materials.

Next, the two sides (B i and the bottom (Ci are cut lo final length and w idth. We used in. thick plywood for the bottom.

Use ihe table saw and dado head to cut the 'A in. wide by 'A in. deep rabbet along each side of the front, the 7* in. wide by '/< in. deep rabbet along the back edge of the side, and also the ^xf2 in. w ide by 7* in. deep dado for the bottom that's cut in the front and sides. Then, lay out the location of ihe cutouts on the honom of the front and two sides, Use a band saw to cut Ihem out.

The front, sides and bottom can now be assembled. Give the parts a thorough sanding, finishing with 220-grit. Add a thin coat of glue lo (he mating surfaces, then join the tw o sides to the front. Slide the bottom into place, but don't use glue here, as the sides must be free to expand and contract with changes in humidity. The dimensions of the bottom in the Bill of Materials allow for this movement. Clamp firmly w ith bar clamps and check the assembly for squareness. If al! looks okay, set aside to dry.

42 The Woodworker's Journal