Woodworker's Journal 1993-17-2, страница 45

Woodworker

Sources

Hardware

A hardware kit that contains the dial face, the battery-powered quartz movement with speaker (including the hour, minute, and second hands), two antique finish hinges, the polished brass knob, and the magnetic catch is available from Klockit. P.O. Box 636, Lake Geneva, Wl 53147; tel. 1-800-556-2548 Specify promo number 71204; price is S43.50 postpaid.

As an option, Klockit will also provide a kit that contains only the dial face and the battery-powered quartz movement with speaker (including the hands). Specify promo number 71203: price is S39.75 postpaid.

Decorative Nails

Decorative 1 in. long (2d) clout nails can be ordered from the Tre-moni Nail Company. P.O. Box 111, Wareham, MA 02571; tel. (508) 295-0058. Order their part number "CT-2."

countersunk and filled. Due to the wood movement problems mentioned earlier, you won't want to use glue here. We used finishing nails because they hold the molding securely, yet tend to flex a little, allowing the necessary movement.

The spacers (D> and supports (E) can now be cut to size. Dry fit the parts on the base to establish the various lengths, then glue the supports to the spacers. Next, use I'A in. long by no. 8 wood screws lo secure the spacer/support subassemblies to the inside of the base as shown. Make the screw shank holes a little oversized to accommodate movement of the sides and front.

Make the Waist

Begin work on the waist by cutting the bottom rail (G), top rail (H) and two stiles (I) to size. At this point in the construction, you'll want to take the measurements directly from the base. Ideally, when the waist is assembled to the base, it should fit snugly just inside the base spacers.

Once the stiles are joined to the raits, it will become very difficult to drill the screw holes for the hinges, so it's best to do that work now. The hinges that are supplied in the kit (see Sources) require

March/April 1993

a mortise only on the stile, not on the door.

The stiles are simply edge-glued to the bottom and top rails. Since these are long-grain to long-grain joints, there is plenty of glue strength. Before clamping, though, check to make sure the distance between the rails is 2I3/s in., the length of the door opening.

Once the rails and stiles are assembled, cut the 3 A in, wide by 'A in. deep rabbet on the outside edge of the stiles. After that, cut the two waist sides (J) to size and cut the 3/» in. wide by 'A in. deep rabbet along ihe back edges for the back. Sand all the waist parts, then assemble the sides to the stile rabbets. When the glue dries, add ihe cut nails.

Cul the door (K) to fil the opening. We applied a bead to the edge of the door using an old lime hand tool called a scratch beader (Fig. 1). To use it. hold the "handle" of the beader against the edge of the door, then draw ii along the stock. Make several light cuts, stopping them just short of the door corners.

Also, al this time, cut the door stop (L) to size and glue it to the top rail as shown.

Next, cut the two cleats <N) and the spacer (0) to size, (hen use finishing nails to join them to the top end of the waist as shown. When joining them, make sure the top edges of the cleats and spacer are flush with the top edges of the waist section.

Add the Waist

Assemble the waisi to the base, locating it so that it sits firmlv on the base

Bill of Materials

(all dimensions actual)

No.

Part

Description

Size Req'd.

Base

A

Front

3I* x 12 x 123A 1

6

Side

3/«x63/«x 12^/4 2

0

Bottom

1/2X63/SX 103/4 1

0

Spacer

3/4x13/4 as req'd

E

Support

3/4 x 3/4 as req'd

F

Bracket Molding

3/4 x 2'/2 as req'd

Waist

G

Bottom Raii

3/4 X 4 V? X 73/4 1

H

Top Rail

3/4 X 4'/z X 6Vs 1

1

Stile

3/4x2'/4x35V4 2

J

Side

3/4 x 5V« x 35V4 2

K

Door

3/4 X 4'ft X 213/8 1

L

Door Stop

3/4XlViX2 1

M

Cove Molding

13/ex1Vz as req'd

N

Cleat

T/16X 3/4X6 2

0

Spacer

V2X1'/2X9 1

P

Bead Molding

'/4 x 3/s as req'd

0

Cove Molding

13/ex1'/2 as req'd

R

Nose Molding

V< x IVz as req'd

Hood

S

Bottom Rail

3/4 x 2V« x 9 1

T

Top Rail

3/4X5VBX9 1

U

Stile

3/4Xl3/4Xl5 2

V

Side

3/4X6V2X15 2

w

Top

1/2 x 87/a x 15V< 1

X

Cove Molding

1 3/b x 1V2 as req'd

Y

Cleat

7/«x 3/4x6 2

Z

Dial Board

'/4X9'/BX133/B 1

AA

Dial Board Base

3/4 X 4 X 97/8 1

BB

Dial Board Bracket 3/< x 3 x 5 2

cc

Back

V« x 11'/4 x 6OV2 1

DD

Glass

1/e x B3/s x 105/b 1

Hardware

EE

Dial Face

see Sources 1

FF

Movement

see Sources 1 •

GG

Hinge

see Sources 2

HH

Knob

see Sources 1

11

Magnetic Catch

see Sources 1

support. If everything looks square, secure the waist to the base w ith several I'/: in. long wood screws driven through the inside of the waist front and sides and into the base spacers.

Make the Cove Molding

All the cove molding on this project (parts M, Q and X) is the same. To make enough for all these parts you'll need a 4 ft. length of stock that measures 1in. thick by 3 in. wide. After the cove is cut. the stock will be ripped lengthwise to create two. 4 ft. lengths.

The cove is cut on the table saw, using the technique of passing the stock, at an angle, over the blade. When making coves this way. the profile of the cove is determined by three factors: the blade

Please circle No. 8 on the Reader Sen il e Card 45