Woodworker's Journal 1993-17-2, страница 47

Using the router freehand, clean all ihe remaining waste stock up to ihe 2'A in. line. This will serve lo "square up" the rabbet to accept the glass, eliminating the need to cut a curve on lop edge on the glass.

Next, use a 'A in. roundover bit to cut a 'A in. radius stepped round all around the front of the opening. Make the step between '/if and '/* in. deep. The bu will leave rounded corners, so you'll need to do some hand work wilh a chisel, file and sandpaper in order to create a miter where the roundovers meet at the corners. Before working on the finished frame, it's a good idea to practice a lew of these cuts on scrap stock.

Cut the hood sides (V) to size and cut the Vs in. wide by 'A in. deep rabbet in the back edge for the back. Sand all the hood parts, then glue and clamp the sides to the frame stiles and add the cut nails,

March/April 1993

The lop (W) can now be cut 10 length and width. Once cut, use a ³/« in. roundover bit to mold the front and side edges as shown. After sanding, the top can be assembled to the hood with flathcad wood screws, counterbored and plugged. The cove molding (X) is added next, again using finishing nails.

Assemble the cleats (Y) to the inside of the hood sides. Together with the waisl cleats, they serve lo lock ihe hood on the case, yei they allow it to slide out the front. Like many antique clocks, the hood is not screwed or attached in any way. Once the cleats are added, check to see that the hood slides out and in easily. Cut the dial board (Z) to size from 'A in. thick plywood or Masonite. Layout and bore the holes for the movement shaft and ihe speaker, then screw the board lo the dial board base (AA) and brackets (BB), To look good, the front of the dial board must be somewhat dark in color, so apply a couple of coats of dark stain al this point (we used Minwax's Dark Walnut).

The dial face (EE) supplied with the kit has a pair of holes in it. called key wind holes. (The battery-operated quart/, movement we used doesn't require winding, but the holes help add to the old-time look of the clock.) You'll need lo use a pair of pliers to remove the eyelet thai's in each hole. Now. use contact cement (the kind used to glue plastic laminate) lo join the dial face lo the dial board. Before adding ihe glue, though, apply a little black paint lo the dial board in the area w here the key w ind holes are located. With the dial face in place, you can install the movement (FF). hands and speaker.

Cui the one piece plywood back (CC) lo fit the base, waist and hood rabbets. In order for the back to fit in place, you'll need to chisel a couple of 'A in. deep notches in the back edge of each waist side where the back laps over it.

The Antique Finish

The antique finish we used is not difficult to do. in fact, it's really a lot of fun. And it results in a lovely, warm patina that few finishes can match. But. before starting, we would suggest you do a test board first. Not only will a test board give you a chance to practice applying the finish, it w ill also show you exactly how the finished surfaces will look.

Once you are ready to go, give the entire project a thorough sanding, finishing with 220-gril. Vacuum all the surfaces and wipe w ith a tack rag to pick up as much dust as possible.

Next, apply a thin coat of a latex water-based red paint to all the exposed surfaces of the clock. You'll want to use a deep red, something similar to what is often called "barn red." To make it easier lo apply, thin it with about 10 percent water. Use a rag to apply the paint, rubbing it "with the grain" to get good coverage. Put it on a little heavier at the moldings and inside corners. Open, flal areas, like the front and sides, should have a little less paint. Let it dry thoroughly.

Wipe-on a coat of Minwax's Colonial Maple Wood Finish lo the painted surfaces and lo all other surfaces of the clock, both inside and out. Allow to dry.

Now. on the surfaces that were painted, wipe-on a coat of Minwax's Dark Walnut Wood Finish. While the finish is still wet, make a pad from a soft cloth, dip it into the can of Minwax Dark Walnut to wet ihe pad. and pat it onto the wood surface. Work a small section at a time, dipping into the can and patting it on the wood. Overlap the pats as you go along. This technique creates the look of a "burled" wood, and we think it is especially attractive. Put it on a little heavier at the inside corners and the moldings.

Allow the stain to dry. then apply two coats of orange shellac. When the shellac dries, rub it out w ith 0000 steel wool. A coat of paste wax completes the finish.

Final Details

The entire dial board assembly can now be secured lo the waist. Use a single screw through each end of the dial board base and into the top edge of the waist

sides.

Add the door (K). hinges iGG) and knob (HH). as shown. Also, the magnetic catch (II) is screwed to the door stop with the striker added to the inside of the door. Attach the back (CC) with several small wood screws. Finally, secure the glass i DD) to the hood, using glazer's points (see Fig. 6) or small brads to hold it in place. Add the battery to the movement and slide the hood on the w aist. We added a thin coat of wax to ihe cleats to help the hood slide on and off a little easier. GJj

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