Woodworker's Journal 1993-17-2, страница 46

diameter, the blade height when nuking the final pass, and the angle that the stock is passed over the blade. The parallel-arm jig shown in Fig. 2 will make this procedure an easy one. And. once made, you'll be able to use it for any number of other cove shapes you may need in the future.

The |ig is simply a pair of parallel arms joined by two connector,. For quick adjustment, we put ours together with T nuts and wing nuts. No matter what hardware you use. though, keep in nnnd ih.it it's most important to have the holes in the arms and connectors drilled on-center and the same distance apart. That insures that the arms and connectors are parallel.

To use the jig, set the arms to the desired cove width (2'/2 in.), raise the table saw blade to the desired cove depth (I 'A in.), and position the jig al an angle so that the blade jusl touches both of the parallel arms (Fig. 3). Use a protractor or an angle finder to measure the angle between the jig arm and the blade.

Remove the jig and set up a straight fence at the same angle that you measured, locating the fence 'A in. from the t 'A in. high blade (Fig. 4). Clamp the fence securely in place, then lower the blade to a height of '/ifi in. Nexi, as shown in Fig. 4, slowly feed the stock into the blade. After the first pass, raise the blade to ^l/s in. and repeat. Continue raising the blade in '/if> in. increments until you reach the final height of I 'A in. This will create a lot of sawdust, so be sure to wear a dust ma.sk.

Once the cove is complete, rip the molding into l³/f in. w idths (Fig. 5). The saw usually leaves a pretty rough surface. so you'll need to do some sanding. A gooseneck scraper, if you have one, w ill come in handy here.

Make the Bead and Nose Molding

The bead molding (P) and nose molding (R) are made next. All of this molding can be made from a piece of 'A in. thick stock that's 2'/* in. wide and about 3 ft. long. Once the stock is cut to size, use the router table and a 'A in. bullnose bit to apply a 'A in. diameter roundover along each edge of the stock. If a bullnose bit is not available locally, you can mail-order one from MLCS. Ltd.. P.O. Box 4053JP. Rydal. PA 19046: tel. 1-800-533-9298.

Use the table saw and rip fence to rip

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the stock to a width of V* in. (for the bead molding). Then, relocate the fence to rip the remaining stock to a width of I '/i in. (for the nose molding).

Add (he Waisf Moldings

The molding that fits between the base and the waist can be added first Miter the parts as shown in the exploded view, then attach them with a few countersunk and filled finishing nails.

The molding that fits between the waist and the hotxl (and serves as the support shelf for the hood) is made up of the bead, cove, and nose moldings. We found it best to first glue the three moldings together, making a single, larger molding. This larger molding was then mitered and attached in place, using countersunk and filled finishing nails.

Make the Hood

Cut the bottom rail (S) and the top rail (T) to length and width, then cut the 'A in. thick by '/: in. long tenons on each

end (Fig 6).

The arch on the top rail is cut next. With a compass, scribe a 37s in. radius (see front view), then cut it out with the band saw. Sand the sawn edge smooth.

Cut the two stiles (U) to size and layout the location of the mortises for the bottom and top rails. We used the router table and a 'A in. diameter straight bit to cut the 'A in. wide by ^]/i in. deep mortises in the stiles. To save strain on the motor, and to keep the bit from overheating, you'll want to make the '/i in. deep cut in four passes, with each pass removing about '/« in. of material. Once cut, use a chisel to square the rounded ends of the mortises.

The top rail, bottom rail and stiles can now be assembled. Apply a thin coat of glue to the mating surfaces and clamp firmly. When dry, remove the clamps and cut the V* in. w ide by 'A in. deep rabbet on the stiles to accept the sides. Then, use a router with a 'A in. rabbeting bit to cut a 'A in. by 'A in. rabbet for the glass (DD) all around the inside (Fig. 6).

Now, change to a 'A in. diameter straight bit and set it to equal the 'A in. depth of the rabbet just cut. Scribe a line 2'A in. from the top edge of the top rail.

The Woodworker's Journal