Woodworker's Journal 1994-18-5, страница 25

Step 3 Bore the holes. Chuck a '/," bit in the drill press, and set the depth stop for a 7,"-deep hole. Next, clamp a fence to the table so it centers the sweep blank under the bit. Although you can use a regular twist drill bit, we prefer the Forstner bit shown in our illustration. It cuts cleanly, with little or no tear-out, and leaves a flat-bottomed hole. The '/."-deep hole provides clearance so the JV'-long tenons on the post and cross-piece ends don't bottom out in the holes.

bandsaw, cutting just outside the line. If you don't have a band-saw, a scrollsaw or even a coping saw will work fine. Just work slowly and carefully. The more accurately you cut the profile, the less smoothing and cleanup work will be required.

SAFETY NOTE: Step 6 requires that you handle a small piece with your hands fairly close to the bit. When you're working wiih shaped edges and a light radius, there's always a chance thai ihe router bit call catch the piece ami throw it, thereby drawing your hand into ihe cutter. Always feed the work piece against the rotation of the bil ant! imo the cutting action to minimise the possibility of the bit catching and throwing the workpiece. We also recommend that you use the new "safety-type" router hits.

Consider your own safety comfort zone before proceeding with this operation. If you haven't done work like this before, or feel apprehensive or uncomfortable with this operation, you may want to fasten a scrap block "handle" to the top of the sweep using double-faced tape. The scrap piece allows you lo keep your fingers well clear of the bit. After cutting the two chamfers, flip the sweep oi-er, fasten the scrap block to the opposite side with she double-stick tape, and cul the remaining two chamfers. As an alternative, cut two 12" lengths of dowel, insert them into the holes in the ends of each sweep, and use ihem as handles when muling the chamfers.

continued on page SI

Woodworker's Journal

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