Woodworker's Journal 2007-Winter, страница 31




Woodworker

Tabletop Exploded View

MATERIAL LIST -

Top & Fence ^

29 Top (1)*

(29

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1/2" x 30" x 31" ^

30 Sub-Top (1)*

3/4" x 30" x 31"

31 Plastic Laminate (1)

1/16" x 48" x 48"

32 Insert Plates (3)*

1/2" x 8" x 12!^"

33 Incra Jig (1)

34 Fence Base (1)*

3/4" x 3" x 30"

35 Fence Front (1)*

3/4" x 4" x 30"

36 Clamping Knobs (2)

3/8" Threaded

37 Incra Jig Platform (1 )* 3/4" x QV" x 27"

*Plywood

grooves. Clamp a spacer block onto the table saw's rip fence and, using a miter gauge, pass the drawer sides over the blade to cut dadoes 1/4" from the each end.

Move the rip fence to align the edge of the spacer block with the dado blade and make the 1/4"-wide by 1/4"-thick tongues at the ends of the front and back pieces to fit into the dadoes in the drawer sides. Readjust the blade to cut a 7/32" dado and move the rip fence 1/4" away from the blade (remove the spacer block). Cut a dado on the inside face of all the drawer pieces for holding the bottoms in place. Cut the drawer bottoms (pieces 24) to size and dry-assemble the three units. Once the fit is satisfactory, disassemble and sand the drawer parts, then glue them together.

The drawer faces (pieces 25) are made from solid oak and are cut to fit the drawer openings with a 1/16" gap all around. Cut this stock and attach it to the drawer fronts from the inside with a couple of #81" screws. With the drawers and the doors completed, drill the holes for attaching the knobs (pieces 26 and 27). You'll need to counterbore the drawer fronts to allow the knob screws to bridge the combined

thickness of the front and face. Mount the doors to the cabinet with surface-mounted piano hinges (piece 16) and screw the door's roller catches (pieces 17) in place. As usual, the back panel (piece 6) is the last piece to make for the cabinet. Cut this out of 1/4" plywood, but don't nail it onto the cabinet until after the top is attached.

Building the Tableop

The tabletop is made with two layers of plywood, which accommodate the two tracks for the fence system and give the table as much vibration resistance and stiffness as possible. The top of the table is covered in plastic laminate, providing a slick surface to slide the stock over and making it easy to clear off wood chips and dust. While building the tabletop, continually refer to the Exploded View Drawing, above, as it lays out the details for constructing the top and the fence.

The first step in constructing the table is to cut a piece for the top (piece 29) to the shape shown in the Pinup Shop Drawings from 1/2"-thick Baltic birch plywood, and make another piece in the same shape from 3/4" Baltic birch plywood for the sub-top (piece 30).

Clamp the two pieces together and sand all the edges smooth. Use a jigsaw to cut 1/2" corner radiuses, and sand the four corners smooth.

Take the clamps off the plywood and set the top aside for the moment. Chuck a 3/4" mortising bit in the router and attach an edge guide. Now, rout 7/16"-deep fence adjustment tracks in the sub-top, following the positions shown in the Drawing. Once the grooves are routed, lay out the rectangular insert area as shown in the Drawing and drill a 1/2"-diameter hole at the inside of each corner. Use a jigsaw to cut out the insert area, then sand the edge of the hole smooth. Drill the pilot holes for the 1/4" threaded inserts at both ends of the opening as shown in Figure 2.

Before gluing the two top pieces together, cut the rectangular insert area out of the top piece of Baltic birch plywood. You'll notice that the hole in the top is larger than the hole in the sub-top. The difference in the two holes creates a sturdy ledge to support the insert plates and the router.

Liberally spread glue over the sub-top, keeping it at least 1/2" back from the fence adjustment track dadoes, and lay the top onto the sub-top. Clamp the two pieces

Winter 2007

31



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