Woodworker's Journal 2007-Winter, страница 33

There's no need to laminate the back side of the fence front as it is restrained from warping by the base connection. Also, drill the counterbored bolt holes to secure the Incra jig to the front. Screw the front to the base and drill a hole at each end of the base to install the clamping knobs (pieces 36) and T-bolts.

We made the two adjustment track T-bolts from standard hardware store stock. Take two 3/8" inside diameter fender washers and file the hole to fit around the square nut area of a 3/8"-diameter by 2/2"-long carriage bolt. Use epoxy to glue the washers onto the bolt. Now use a hacksaw to cut two sides of the washers flush with the head of the carriage bolt and file or grind these edges smooth. Insert the T-bolts into the fence adjustment tracks, set the fence assembly onto the bolts and thread the clamping knobs into place.

The Incra jig platform (piece 37) is made from 3/4" plywood and has two 3/8"-diameter holes for securing the platform to the router table tracks. The other four holes shown in the Drawing hold the jig to the platform and need to be countersunk. Drill the 1/4"-diameter holes and countersink each one on the underside of the platform. Insert 1/4"-diameter flathead bolts through the platform, and set the Incra jig onto the bolts. Secure the assembly with four hex nuts.

To mount the Incra jig, first undo the clamping knobs from the T-bolts and remove the fence. Now set the Incra jig platform onto the T-bolts and thread on the clamping knobs. Butt the fence into the front

of the Incra jig and insert two 1/4"-diameter by l^'-long flathead bolts through the fence front's holes and into the Incra jigs' mounting slots. Thread the hex nuts on firmly. Move the fence into position and tighten the clamping knobs. Release the Incra jig knob to maneuver the fence into position.

Completing the Final Details

Set the router tabletop on the cabinet and square the two pieces to each other. Drill a number of 5/32" holes up through the web frame into the top for #8-1¹/2" screws, making sure to stay clear of the tracks. Countersink these pilot holes and secure the cabinet to the top.

Disassemble all the parts of the router cabinet and the table and apply a durable finish to all the wood surfaces. Once the finish is dry, drill four 1/4" holes in each corner of the bottom shelf for the carriage bolts that mount the casters (pieces 15) under the

cabinet. Install the swiveling casters near the back edge of the cabinet and the stationary casters along the front edge. We mounted an electrical outlet strip to the outside right wall and drilled a 1" access hole in the back panel for the router's cord. Put all the doors and drawers into the cabinet and nail on the back panel. Mount your router housing to an insert plate, then install the router motor in the housing. Now set the assembly into the insert hole in the table and secure the plate.

Constructing the router table takes about 30 hours and costs about $450 in materials, depending on the wood you choose. There really isn't a particularly difficult technique involved in building this project, but pay close attention to the layout measurements. Following the small details will make your router table more accurate and result in greater returns for your time and investment. a* _/

Winter 2007

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