Woodworker's Journal 2007-Winter, страница 70




Woodworker

Router-jointer Jig

(End View)

The thickness of your laminate determines how much material you'll be able to remove with each pass of your stock

Router-jointer Jig Exploded View

T x W x L

1

Table (1)

3/4" x 15" x 60"

2

Table Rails (2)

3/4" x 2" x 60"

3

Fence Face (1)

3/4" x 2" x 60"

4

Fence Bottom (1)

3/4" x 3" x 60"

5

Plastic Laminate (1)

1/16" x 2" x 33"

1/4" x 20

6 Star Knobs (2)

1/4" x 20

Router-jointer Jig

(Top View)

Additional Hardware: One each: 1/4" - 20 x carriage bolt, 1/4" - 20 x 3" carriage bolt and two 1/4" fender washers.

Place the hole for the router bit 28" from the infeed end of the jig.

The 7/16" hole on the left end of the fence assembly allows sufficient movement to adjust your fence to its proper depth of cut.

presentation is much more comfortable and controlled than standing the wood on its edge and moving it past the cutter supported only on its edge.

To create infeed and outfeed surfaces on the one-piece continuous fence, glue a piece of high-pressure plastic laminate to the outfeed side. You can find it at any home center. The thickness of the laminate determines the depth of cut. Typical countertop laminate is around 1/32" to 1/16" thick. This shallow cut removes just a small amount of stock, which is perfect for twisted or wild-grained woods.

The router is mounted on the horizontal surface, or the table, presenting the bit vertically. The upcut spiral bit or end mill exerts downward force, and actually helps to "hold" the work firmly on the table. This may sound contrary to common sense, but with the router mounted under the table, it is essentially upside-down, so an up-spiral bit or right-hand twist end

mill is the proper cutter. Do not use a downcut spiral bit. It would work against you and might lift the wood off the surface of the table.

The typical length of a small conventional jointer is 48", with the knives in the middle of the table. That presents about 24" on either side of the cutterhead. Longer infeed and outfeed surfaces are better, because they provide more workpiece support. Depending on the material used to construct this jig, you can make the infeed and outfeed surfaces as long as you wish.

We opted for a 5'-long jig with the router positioned 28" from the infeed end. For the fence material, 3/4" Baltic birch plywood (which comes in 5'-square sheets) is an ideal jig-making material. It's a high-quality lay-up, with more plys per unit of thickness than standard plywood, and it has no voids. It's also much lighter than MDF or melamine. Since this jig is intended to be stored when not in use, weight is an important consideration.

Making the Jig

Downward force on the table and sideways force on the fence is exerted when jointing, so the jig must be firmly secured while in use, to effectively oppose those forces. If the most stable item in your shop is the bench, simply clamp one end to the bench and the other end to a shop stand. For purposes of photography, we used a pair of sawhorses instead of a bench and a stand. This works well, but it may be a little low for your back. Choose the place to use your router-jointer based on a flat, sturdy surface that allows the router-jointer to be securely clamped and at a height that is comfortable for you. Remember that the router hangs down from the bottom of the table, so the jig cannot simply rest on your bench or support surface.

There are two parts to make: the table and the fence. The width of the table is determined by the amount of desired work surface, plus the diameter of the router base and the

70

Workshop Projects



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