Woodworker's Journal 2008-32-3, страница 16

Woodworker

QUESTIONS

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Gluing Tips and Mock Mahogany

THIS ISSUE S EXPERTS

Betty Scarpino is the

woodturning columnist for Woodworker's Journal. Some of her turnings are in the Smithsonian collection.

Timothy C. Knight is a forester and silviculturist who works in timber management in Arkansas.

I read your article

Contact us by writing to "Q&A", Woodworker's Journal, 4365 Willow Drive, Medina, MN 55340, by faxing us at (763) 478-8396 or by e-mailing us at: QandA@wootfworkersjoumal.com Please include your home address, phone number and e-mail address (if you have one) with your question.

about glue blocks ("Woodturning," June 2006). It was very easy to understand. I bet you are a good teacher. I tried Hot Stuff glue to fasten my turnings to the face plate block, but it did not bond. Maybe I should have moistened my wood?

Phil Nesbitt Medicine Hat, Alberta Canada

i\F . A ir

First of all, it's important to use medium or thick consistency cyanoacrylate (CA) glue, NOT the thin kind. It's also important to have a good fit between glue block and turning wood and make sure there's no sawdust in the joint. Also, if it's cold in your shop, the glue won't set up. It sets up with heat and moisture, but not too much moisture ... just a hint. If it's too wet, then the glue glazes over and the joint won't hold.

Sometimes when the glue is old or something else is wrong with it, it just doesn't work, but for the most part, that's pretty rare.

Here's a tip: when you've finished using some of the glue, leave the cap OFF until the glue settles back into the bottle. That will prevent the nozzle from clogging up. You can put the cap back on after the glue has drained back. (That's a tough one, because we were all taught in grade school to put the lid back on the glue bottle, so we have to unlearn this habit when using CA glue.)

Good luck!

— Betty Scarpino

If not applied properly, cyanoacrylate glues are not all that super for face plates.

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I have been looking ^JP for an authoritative summary on Philippine mahogany. I restore classic boats — mainly Chris-Crafts, and in the post-World War II years Chris-Craft used "Philippine" mahogany for its boats. I know ... there ain't no such thing as Philippine mahogany!

What is the species of wood that is considered to be Philippine mahogany? Is there a source — maybe of plantation grown?

— Paul Cundiff Jamestown, Kentucky

\ "Philippine" mahogany fl is a trade name applied to numerous different species of the genus Shorea. These species are common in the Philippines, Malaysia and Indonesia. Other trade names associated with the species are meranti, lauan and balau. Balau is the name usually applied to the species with heavier and tighter grain. Meranti can be sold as light meranti and dark meranti. Dark meranti is more dense and deeper in color than light meranti.

Philippine mahogany is not a mahogany at all (or cedar), but rather a hardwood species of the family Dipterocarpaceae which is the meranti family African mahogany (genus Khaya) and Honduras mahogany (genus Swietenia) are both in the Meliaceae (mahogany) family.

It would be helpful if wood were sold by species name rather than trade names, but it is doubtful that will ever occur. In Australia, Shorea species are sold under the trade name Pacific maple, so you can see how confusing this all can be.

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