Woodworker's Journal 2008-32-4, страница 61
FINISHING HOTLINE The Dog Ate My Door By Michael Dresdner ABOUT MICHAEL DRESDNER Michael Dresdner is a nationally known finishing expert and the author o/The New Wood Finishing Book from Taunton Press. When not writing about woodworking, he is an active Contact us by writing to "Finishing Hotline," Woodworker's Journal, 4365 Willow Drive, Medina, MN 55340, by faxing us at (763) 478-8396 or by e-mailing us at: ftnishing@woodworkersjaurnal.com Please include your home address, phone number and e-mail address (if you have one) with your question. I'm having problems matching colors using a stainable wood filler. A large clog loft deep claw and teeth marks in one of my stained doors. When I patched the damage with wood filler and used the same stain that's on the door, the repair area became much darker. Any thoughts? Albert Basta Cambridge, Minnesota Michael Responds: Not all putty accepts stain the same way, but then, neither does all wood. If you plan to stain wood with putty in it, your best course of action is to first test (lie dried, sanded putty on a scrap of the same wood. That will tell you if that particular putty absorbs more or less stain than that particular wood. If it does not match, adjust the putty color accordingly by switching to a different color or by tinting the putty you are using. Another option is to use putty that, after staining, is lighter than the wood surrounding it. The reason for using a lighter patch is that when it comes to touchup, it is much easier to make a lighter spot darker than to make a dark spot lighter. After the first coat of sealer or finish, go back and touch up the light area by adding darker grain lines, a layer of translucent color or both. Use touch-up markers, which you'll find at most home stores, or use a fine artist's brush paired with either thinned acrylic craft paint or the special touch-up powders and liquids sold at woodworking specialty stores. Michael Responds: Danish oil is a thin varnish designed to be flooded on and wiped off exactly the way you are using it. Tung oil is a natural drying oil, not a varnish, though there are varnishes made from tung oil. Tung oil takes far longer to dry than Danish oil and leaves a much softer, weaker finish. My advice is to stick with what you arc doing. It works for you, and there is absolutely nothing wrong with the finishing sequence you described. | I am retired, and my Viy hobby is cutting out figures on a scroll saw. I mainly use oak, walnut or Baltic birch plywood. I pour Danish oil into a shallow pan and immerse the items for a few minutes, then wipe off the excess and hang them up to dry. After 72 hours, I coat the items with spray lacquer, applying a couple of coats until it looks good. A friend of mine told me she uses tung oil. What are your suggestions on using Danish oil vs. tung oil? Any input would be valuable. Ken Lehmann Rapid City, South Dakota tf'JjA Several months ago, I completed a poplar cabinet and painted it with latex enamel. Today, the paint surface is soft, and articles left on top will stick to it. The paint store man said latex paint never gets really hard. Is there anything I can put on it at this stage, like maybe a coat of shellac, to solve this problem? Howard Sahl Longmont, Colorado Michael Responds: Nope. A finish, like a chain, is only as strong as its weakest link. If you have a finish that, for whatever reason, is too soft, remove it and start over. Trying to put a harder finish on a softer one will be similar to making a couch harder by putting a piece of glass over the cushions. When you sit down, the glass will crack as the softer cushions give way under it. The same will happen if you put hard or brittle finish over softer coatings, though the harder topcoat will |
