Woodworker's Journal 2009-33-3, страница 17

Woodworker

Questions & Answers

Getting Better Results

THIS ISSUE'S EXPERTS

Ian Kirby is the author of several books on woodworking and a frequent contributor to Woodworker's Journal.

Rob Johnstone is editor in chief ((/Woodworker's Journal.

Contact us by writing to "Q8A," Woodworker's Journal, 4365 Willow Drive, Medina, MN 55340, by faxing us at (763) 478-8396 or by emailing us at: Q3ndA@woodworttersloumal.com Please include your home address, phone number and email address (if you have one) with your question.

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WINNER! For simply sending in his question on wood expansion in different species, Chuck Bobb of Goodyear, Arizona, wins a Steel City Bench Mortiser (Model 25200). Each issue we toss new questions into a hat and draw a winner.

QI built a nifty edge-straightening fence for my router table, and it works great except for one problem. On highly figured wood, I get too much tear-out of the grain. I've tried going slower and changing bits... no good. Any suggestions?

Tim Zimmerman Hibbing, Minnesota

A I've had good luck using a compression bit (see photo, at right) to limit that exact problem. I'd try changing bits one more time.

—Rob Johnstone

QIs there a difference in shrinkage or expansion of different wood species? I am building a hope chest for my granddaughter, and I'm planning on using pine on the outside and aromatic cedar on the inside with the two layers of wood glued together to make one thickness. Is this going lo be a problem?

Each panel will consist of boards edge-glued together to make the size of the panel and then glued together on their faces to make a thickness of about 7/8".

Chuck Bobb Goodyear, Arizona

A There is, indeed, a difference in the shrinkage and expansion between wood species. That variable is compounded by whether you use flatsawn or quartersawn stock. These variables will be mitigated by bringing the moisture content of your wood to about eight percent. You can do that by leaving the wood in the house in stick for two or three weeks or in a shop with a house-like atmosphere.

As to the construction of the chest, you don't indicate how the boards will be joined at the corners. In general, the thicker the wood, the more bulky the corner joint becomes. The more traditional and elegant way to

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line a chest is to fit the cedar in place loose by mitering the corners. The chest is finished inside and out. Then the unfinished lining is inserted.

— Ian Kirby

Ql'm trying to smooth a piece of cherry knot or crotch wood I've had di ving out for about three years now. I resawed a slice with my band saw, but when I turned to my cabinet scrapers they were very dull. I tried to sharpen them but had little luck getting the wire edge on them that makes them work so well. I have a good quality burnishing rod I purchased at a cabinet shop, but I'm afraid I don't know the proper method of using il. Would you please explain the proper process of sharpening and burnishing a cabinet scraper? My band saw resaws very well, but this wood is hard as a rock and needs a good scraping.

Brian Knight Kernersville, North Carolina

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Freud's compression bit (used here to create the rabbets at left) has a complicated double spiral cutting edge that slices clean through twisted grain.

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June 2009 Woodworker's Jou ma I