Woodworker's Journal 2011-35-1, страница 14
C^f r- ! ' <- r* r-' ii/ \ 'J \ n n Questions & AnswersTapers, Tearout and Strippers THIS ISSUE S EXPERTS Rob Johnstone is editor in chief of Woodworker's Journal. Chris Marshall is field editor of Woodworker's Journal and author of several books on woodworking. Michael Dresdner is a nationally known finishing expert and the author of The New Wood Finishing Hook. Contact us by writing to"U&A," Woodworker's Journal, 4365 Willow Drive, Medina, MN 55340, by faxing us at (763) 478-8396 or by emailing us at: QandA@woodwor<ersjournal.com Please include your home address, phone number and email address (if you have one) with your question. QWhen ordering new lathe spindle and tailstoek parts, they are listed as #1 taper or #2 Morse taper. Please advise what differences there are in these parts and how I am to know which 1 need for my lathe. Vern Guti Corry, Pennsylvania A I'm not sure who Mr. Morse was and how he got to design the tapers, but that is water under the bridge. According to diracdelia.co.uk, an online science and engineering encyclopedia, a Morse taper is "A self-holding standard taper largely used on small cutting tools such as drills, end mills, and reamers, and on some machine spindles ..." And, 1 can add, on lathes. The difference between a #1 Morse taper and a U2 is basically the length and the "section" of the taper. Think of a long, tapered rod that stalls at a point and gets larger in diameter the farther down the rod you go. You could cut a section out of any place along that rod and have the same taper. Both the #1 and 2 have the same laper per inch, but the #1 starts a bit closer to the "pointy end" of our imaginary rod. The best way to know which type of taper you need is to consult your owner's manual. The other way is to take the taper out of your lathe and measure it. A #1 will be 2Y«" long, a #2 will be 2'Yu1 long. — Rob Johnstone I have been making ^^ raised panels for a few years now, and it seems no matter what speed 1 have the router set at and the moisture content of the wood, I always get tearout when routing the profiles on the edge of my rails and stiles. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. Dan Smith Amana, lowc A We always have to make some assumptions when answering questions about machine setups we can't see, so 1*11 make a lew here. Dan, I'll presume that your cope and stick bits are clean and sharp, and that when you set up the sticking cuts on the rails and stiles you are closing up your router table fence facings around the bit as much as possible. Dull bits or gaps around the cutter can lead to tearout. It also might be the case that your router isn't quite powerful enough for the task; I wouldn't use less than a 2hp router for door joinery like this. Regardless of the variables, here's something to try: instead of cutting the entire sticking profile in one deep pass, try taking it in a Jew shallower passes, resetting the fence to expose more of the bit each time. (The bit height stays the same — only the fence can move.) There's no rule that says you can't "sneak up" on this cut, and removing less Shown here are a drill chuck and a #2 Morse taper used to mount it in a lathe's tailstoek. _ #2 Morse Taper RECALL NOTICE A recall is in effect invDlving the following items. If you need more information, visit "More on the Web" at woodworkersjournal.com. • Model numbers R0400, R0400G, Ro410, R041)K, R0410LW and FS3OOOROS Black & Decker random-orbit sanders with date codes between 200701 and 20C929; (866-220-1767). 14 February 2011 Woodworkers Journal JMaasa: ii^aVki^ & [Fsmtas© Map^tetoMI |
