Woodworker's Journal 2011-35-Winter, страница 28

Woodworker

that all areas be sanded the same way with the same grit paper. I like to do my final sanding with 180-grit garnet paper, going with the grain. Sanding the end grain with used garnet paper makes it a bit less likely to absorb excess stain. You can apply pigmented stain to raw or sealed wood, but it will wipe off of sealed wood more easily, leaving less stain and a more subtle color change.

Applying Pigment Stains

The best way to apply any commercial or pigmented stain is to flood it on with a brush, rag or nylon pad, then wipe it off while

it is still wet. That will give you the most uniform coloration, leaving only stain that has found lodging in pores and sanding scratches. If it is not dark enough, let it dry overnight and stain again the next day, but this time, brush it on and wipe off only what is required to make the color uniform and intense. It takes more skill to leave the stain heavy and still have it come out even, but it also gives you more control over the color intensity.

Stains that contain all pigment and no dye are not prone to blotching problems on resinous hardwoods like cherry, or on

pine, spruce and other softwoods. However, if the wood has radical grain changes, like rotary cut birch plywood, poplar and some other hardwoods, wherever end grain shows up, more stain will be absorbed.

Stain will also lodge more in the softer summer wood of softwoods. That will result in a photo-negative effect, causing the normally lighter colored summer wood to be darker than the winter wood. Efficient sanding will minimize both these conditions, as will sealing the wood first with a thin coat of dewaxed shellac or Zinsser SealCoatJ&

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28 pigment stains