Woodworker's Journal 2011-35-Winter, страница 31
If a typical dye particle were the size of a mouse, a typical pigment particle would be the size of a whale. Size Matters First and foremost, dyes look different than pigments, and the easiest way to see that is to look at samples. In the photo on page 32, I used the same color of dye stain and pigment stain on slabs of figured maple and oak. The pigment was able to lodge in the nooks and crannies of the large pores of the oak, but mostly wiped off the finer grained maple. However, the dye soaked deeply into all areas of both woods. This is because dyes go into the wood to color its fibers, while pigments sit on top of the wood. Why? Dye particles are vastly smaller than pigment particles. If a typical dye particle were the size of a field mouse, a typical pigment particle would be the size of a whale. Staining is one area where size does matter. All commercial stains containing pigment also contain a binder that acts like a thin coat of finish, sealing the wood as you stain. Dyes can be simple colorant in solvent, leaving nothing but color in the wood once the solvent evaporates. Therefore, dyed wood acts like raw wood and must be finished over. Dyes are compatible under any finish, and dyed wood can be restained with another dye or a pigment. Finally, there is the issue of clarity. A very dark application of pigmented stain will start to look like a painted surface. But, due to the clarity of dyes, you can make wood very dark and still retain the look of wood. (For example, see the maple boards on 32.) When you go dark on dense wood, dye is the ticket. Making Stains from Dyes Ready to give them a try? It's quite simple. Dyes are sold as powders meant to be dissolved in a particular solvent, as liquid concentrates that will go into several solvents, and as ready-to-use stains. The powders come in water-, alcohol- or oil-soluble versions. Of the three, I find water-soluble dyes to be the most user friendly for staining raw wood. So, for your first try, I suggest water-soluble dyes. Add up to an ounce of dye powder to a pint of warm water for a very intense dye. To make the dye weaker, use less powder or concentrate, or add more water. For custom colors, dissolve each dye in solvent first, then mix the liquids a bit at a time to get the color you want. Test the mixture on scrap wood, and keep track of your formula in case you want to repeat it later. Water-soluble dyes dissolve in warm water almost immediately and completely. Alcohol-soluble dyes go into denatured alcohol, but they may take several hours to dissolve completely. I let them sit overnight, then strain out any sediment through fine cheesecloth. Oil-soluble dyes will break down in most petroleum distillates — naphtha, lacquer thinner, toluene, etc. Let them sit overnight and strain them as above. Once you've mixed liquid dye, try it on scrap wood to see the color. As the dye dries, the color will fade and start to look "chalky," but don't worry, it will come back to life once a coat of finish is added. The true color is how it looks when wet. Flood It On, Wipe It Off One simple method works best with dyes: flood it onto the raw wood and wipe it off while it is still wet. That lets the dye soak continues on page 32... WINTER 2011 31 |
