Woodworker's Journal Harvest-Table, страница 7

43. Locate the wedges on the leaves and make them.

44. Mortise for and mount the hinges (T) while you are making the leaves so you can make any final adjustments needed.

45. Mortise for the hinges.

46. Cut a notch to make room for the knuckle as shown in the Rule Joint Detail. NOTE: The knuckle center is shifted slightly (1/32") toward the leaf from the theoretical center.

47. NOTE that the special table hinges used here are made so that the swing arc works out just right when the hinges are mortised in, and that the center of the knuckle barrel is inset precisely 1/8" from the bottom surface.

48. Make the drawer slightly smaller than the actual opening, leaving the dimensions varying slightly from those given in the Materials List.

49. Fit the drawer flush by sizing the front (O) about 1/16" less in width and length than the opening.

50. Equip the table saw with a dado head to begin making the drawer parts.

51. Set the dado for a 1/4" wide cut. NOTE: You'll need a tenon jig to support the drawer front when cutting it on end.

52. Establish the 1/2" deep groove in the ends of the front.

53. Establish the 1/4" deep dado at each end of the sides (P) (see Drawer Top View).

54. Form the 1/4" wide x 1/4" deep rabbet at the ends of the back (Q), as well as the 1/4" wide by 1/4" deep groove in the sides and front.

55. Cut back the inside tongue of the drawer front to 1/4".

56. Cut the drawer bottom (R) to fit.

57. Assemble the drawer.

58. Drill a 1/2" diameter hole in the drawer front to accept the drawer knob (S).

59. Use screws to install the drawer runners (K), drawer guides (L) and drawer stops (M).

60. Adjust the drawer stops so that the drawer front is just flush with the stretchers.

61. Add the turnout stops (U).

62. Remove the table hinges and turnouts mounted earlier for fitting.

63. Sand all the parts carefully.

64. Stain as desired.

65. Apply two coats of shellac and two coats of varnish, rubbing out the varnish with 000 steel wool between coats and being sure to varnish the underside of the top and leaves to help prevent warping.

These plans were originally published in Volume 14, Issue 4 of The Woodworker's Journal (July/Aug. 1990, pages 49-51).