Creative Woodworks & crafts 1998-07, страница 31

To turn the letter opener body, the blank is mounted in the lathe with a 7mm pen mandrel (see Fig. 6). Slide the blank over the shaft and secure it. A live center equipped with a cone point is needed to complete the setup. When positioning the blank on the mandrel, be sure to put the end with the more accurately centered hole to the right.

Use a skew to turn the blank down to a cylinder, making sure to go no deeper than is required to true up the blank (see Fig. 7).

If you opt not to use the special bit for squaring up the ends of the blank, you can true up the ends of the cylinder at this point by using a miter gauge and either a disc or belt sander to sand the ends square. Just be sure that the cylinder is round and at equal dimensions at both ends so that you aren't sanding a tapered cylinder.

Next, using a parting tool and a set of outside calipers, turn a small shoulder on the right-hand end of the blank. This shoulder should be turned down to 3/4"-Dia. (see Fig. 8). This forms the foundation for the start of the bead detail at the end of the blank.

Using a small gouge or skew, turn a bead on the shoulder you just

Fig. 1. Kipping the block to the required 1-1/4" square on the band eaw. I use a "clamp 'n tool guide" clamp as a fence on the band saw.

Fig. 2. The center is located by drawing lines parallel to all four edge6 of the block. This is more accurate than connecting the corner© as tradition normally dictates. I use a combination square and set it for just a little less than half the width of the 6tock. In this case, it is set for 9/16".

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Fig. 3. Prilling out the center with the brad point bit. Either a regular 7mm brad point drill bit can be used or a 1/4"-Dia. "bullet drill" bit made by Black and Decker. Personally, I prefer

the latter because it seems to drill a etraighter hole. This bit is available from most home centers or from HUT Products for Wood.

Fig. 4. Applying glue to the brass tube. Be sure to use enough to do the job!