Creative Woodworks & crafts 2000-08, страница 16

S Patterns Located in Full Size Pattern Section No. 1!

by Joseph Herrmann

SUPPLIES

Tools: band saw; table saw; miter box saw; drill press; electric hand drill with No. 8 Screwmate bit, No. 2 Phillips bit, and 1/4"-Dia. and 3/8"-Dia. twist bits; router with 1/4"-Dia. and 1/2"-Dia. roundover bits; spindle sander or drum sander; belt sander; jointer; planer; framing square 1/4" and 9/16" wrenches Sandpaper, assorted grits Spacers, four pieces (approx. 1" x 5/8" x 21") Twelve No. 8 x 2-1/2" galvanized deck screws Sixteen No. 6 x 1-1/4" galvanized deck screws Fifty-two No. 6 x 1 -5/8" galvanized deck screws Four 3/8" x 3-1/2" carriage bolts Four 3/8" washers Four No. 16 x 3/8" nuts Two 1/4" x 2" carriage bolts Two 1/4" washers Two No. 20 x 1/4" nuts Behr's No. 92 clear waterproofing

Note: Bill Of Materials located in Full Size Pattern Section No. 1

INSTRUCTIONS A little history

Around the turn of the century, rich folks went to "camp" in the Adirondack Mountains during the hot summer months to escape the congestion, and the smells of the big cities. These elaborate camp retreats sported a rustic decor. Often, the furniture and other decorations were hand made by the guides and other employees during the off months. This simple furniture was extremely comfortable and word eventually spread to the common folk who copied the style for use on their patios and porches.

I made my chair out of pressure treated yellow pine (or deck lumber), but redwood or Western red cedar would be excellent choices as well. Be selective when you choose your stock, especially with treated lumber, because there is a lot of defective material being sold as "deck lumber." Loose knots, splits and checks, and twisted and warped lumber are not uncommon.

The plans call for 3/4" stock for much of the body of the chair. However, treated 3/4" lumber can be rather expensive. As an alternative, 5/4 deck boards could be substituted and planed down to the required thickness.

Step 1. The first thing I did was make plywood patterns for all the curved pieces. Chances are you will be making more than one chair and rigid patterns are a lot easier to work with than flimsy paper ones. Stiff posterboard would also work well for this task; it just wouldn't be as durable._

A few words on finishing

I could have primed and painted the chair, but it would take regular maintenance to keep the chair looking good. I opted instead to apply a clear, waterproof coating on the chair.

I used Behr's No. 92 Clear Waterproofing that I bought at a local home center. It's a linseed oil based product that does a good job of repelling water and, unlike other brands, it leaves the chair smooth and silky.

I put two coats on all surfaces and an extra coat on all of the end grain. Toward the end of the summer, I'll put on another coat. One coat each year thereafter should be enough to keep the chair looking nice.

The Adirondack chair is quite comfortable on its own. However, a padded cushion would greatly enhance its sleepability Have a seat, pop the top on a cold one, and enjoy the summer! jfi

16

Step 2. Trace the pattern for the horizontal legs onto the selected stock. Be sure to have the bottom edge of the pattern on the edge of the board. (I used 2" x 10" here because that's what I had. The pattern will fit on a standard 2" x 6" board, however.)_

continued on page 18