Creative Woodworks & crafts 2000-08, страница 18

Creative Woodworks & crafts 2000-08, страница 18

continued from page 16

place at the front of the assembly with spring clamps, they rack the assembly slightly so that it is square with the front skirt. I also cut a piece of scrap stock to fit between the two legs to keep the legs parallel at the back and at the same distance apart as at the front. I clamped it Into place with a pipe clamp. Attach the 3" outer seat slat to the legs and front skirt after rounding over the upper front edge with the 1/2" roundover bit. All other edges (on all of the seat slats) should be shaped using the 1/4"-Dia. roundover bit. I used six 1-5/8" x No. 6 screws to fasten the outer seat slat in place on both horizontal legs and the front skirt._

Step 3. The front angles of the horizontal legs are 15 and 90 degrees, respectively (as indicated on the pattern). These can either be cut on the miter box saw or, if you are careful, on the band saw. i've done it both ways with satisfactory results. Cut off the front angle to 15 degrees, then put the 15 degree angle up against the fence and cut the adjacent angle off at 90 degrees._

Step 7. It's the little things that often "make or break" a project! I like to have all of the screw holes an equal distance from the edges and in a straight line on all similar pieces. This makes it appear as though I put a little thought and effort into the piece instead of just slapping it together. Determine the location of the screw holes to attach the front skirt to the 15 degree angle on the horizontal legs. I pre-drill them on the drill press using the No. 8 Screwmate bit. Screw the parts together with 2-1/2" long No. 8 screws. It's a good idea to use galvanized screws with pressure treated yellow pine. The salts present in the wood will eventually eat through ordinary screws. Also, lubricating the screws with wax will help to prevent breakage._

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Step 11. Attach the next four slats to the legs in a similar manner, pre-drilling for the screws on the drill press. Leave the last slat off until you are sure of its size and location. Note the 5/8" spacers between each slat. I put the slats in the following order: part L, part M, part N, part M, part N (part 0 will be attached in Step 20)._

Step 4. Sand the edges of the legs to remove the marks left from band sawing. (I used a spindle sander for this. However, you could also use a drill press fitted with a sanding drum.) Match up the two legs, mark any discrepancies, and sand off any excess wood so you have two fairly identical legs._

Step 8. Line up the front edge of the front skirt with the front edge of the vertical legs so that the bottom of the front skirt is positioned on the 8-1/2" line that was drawn earlier. Screw them together on the inside as shown. Be sure you make both a right and a left leg assembly.

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Step 5. Dimension the wood for the front skirt and trace on the half pattern. Cut it out and sand the curve. _

Step 12. The seat back assembly must be attached as a unit to the portion assembled thus far. This assembly consists of the five back slats and the upper and lower slat supports. Dimension the pieces for the back slats, trace on the patterns, cut the curves on the band saw, and sand them to remove the band saw marks. Rout all the front edges with the 1/4"-Dia. roundover bit. I also cut out and prepared the arm rest supports in the same manner, but I didn't rout them. _

Step 9. Since most of the stress on the chair will be directed toward this joint, I reinforce it with two 3/8"-Dia. x 3-1/2" long carriage bolts, secured with washers and nuts. Center the bolt locations so that they don't interfere with the screws placed earlier. Drill two 3/8 "-Dia. holes across from one another and Insert two bolts through the holes. Secure with washers and nuts. ___

Step 6. The vertical legs are trimmed at an angle so that they don't appear to be out of proportion with the rest of the project. Cut the angle out on the band saw and joint it to remove the saw marks. Measure up 8-1/2" to locate and mark where the horizontal leg and front skirt assembly will be located. Transfer these lines to the front edges of the vertical legs._

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Step 13- Dimension the top seat slat support and radius the ends. Rather than leave the upper slat support square on the ends, you can also round over the edges, as I did, to give the chair a more finished look. I drew the arc using

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Step 10. Attaching the seat slats is next, but the assembly created thus far must be both

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square and parallel. I made two square corner a quarter for a template and I used a belt sander jigs out of scrap plywood. When clamped in to sand it to the proper shape._