Creative Woodworks & crafts 2001-06, страница 58

continued from page 57

SUPPLIES

WoocP: walnut—one piece 1/8" x 4" x 8" (for inlay | panel No. 1), one piece—1/8" x 4" x 8" (for the upright accent piece), one piece—1/8" x 4" x 8"

(for the base accent piece); chakte-coc—one piece 1/8" | x 4" x 8" (for inlay panel No. 2); cherry—one piece 1/8" x 4" x 8" (for inlay panel No. 3); pau amarillo—

one piece 1/8" x 4" x S" (for inlay panel No. 4); | mahogany—one piece 1/8" x 4" x 8" (for inlay panel

No. 5); hard maple—one piece 1/8" x 4" x 8" (for % the upright face piece), one piece 1/8" x 4" x 8"

(for the upper base piece), one piece 1/2" x 4" x 8" J (for the main upright piece), one piece—1/2" x 4" x 8" (for the main base piece)

Toois: scroll saw with No. 2/0 reverse tooth blades; drill | with Nos. 68, 69 or 70 bits and 1 -3/8"-Dia. Forstner bit; |

random orbital sander: router with decorative profile bits £

(optional) |

Sandpaper, 150 grit |

Scissors |

Graphite transfer paper £

No. 2 pencil |

3/4" wide masking tape |

Glue brush %

White glue |

Sponge ss

Straight edge | Latex contact adhesive

Large dowel or J-roller or similar | Minwax Wood-Sheen Natural Rubbing Oil clear finish

Mini clock insert of choice** £

*AI! wood for this project is a vailable for $23.80 (enough | wood for two clock patterns) prepaid to U.S. addresses from: The Artistic inlay Company, 9033 S. Nashville, Oak % Lawn, IL 60453; 708-599-5531; package ffWP-127.

Available from Sloans Woodshop, 3453 Callis Road, £ Lebanon, TN 37090; 1-888-615-9663.

INSTRUCTIONS

Transfer the patterns

Copy the patterns and trim so that they can be easily centered on the workpiece. Also cut where appopriate on a 45 degree angle across the registration marks (see Fig. 1). The actual pattern plates are laid out in such a way that each plate represents a cutting stop in the inlay process.

Transfer the registration marks to the hard maple upright face piece (see Fig. 2). Place a small piece of masking tape on the top center of pattern plate No. 1 and attach it to the center of the face piece. Next, slide a sheet of graphite paper under the registration marks and with the aide of a straight edge, accurately trace them out. Note: this is the most important step in this project as the registration marks are guides which help you align all the plates in the pattern accurately. Remove the graphite paper and secure the remaining three sides of the pattern with masking tape.

5®

Cut and assemble the marquetry

Check the grain direction of the inlay stock to be sure it matches up with the pattern, then attach the stock to the underside of the face piece with masking tape (see Fig. 3). Drill a blade entry hole, then make a bevel cut along the pattern lines as indicated. Note: for more information about bevel and pierce cutting, refer to page 12 of the October 1999 issue of Creative Woodworks and Crafts, or better yet check out our website at www.woodworksandcrafts.com where the original sidebar has been reproduced.

After cutting out the first inlay, remove the pattern from the face piece as well as the inlay board itself and discard the waste wood. Apply a light bead of white glue to the edges of the inlay piece and insert it into the face piece. Wipe away excess glue with a slightly damp sponge.

Repeat this procedure with each subsequent plate (Nos. 2-5). Note: before cutting each new plate, review the lines to be cut and the placement of the pierce cuts. DO NOT perform any sanding until directed to do so below.

Assemble the upright

After your marquetry is complete on the upright face piece, sand the rear side to clean up any glue build-up and to prepare it for laminating. DO NOT sand away the registration marks at this time as they will be needed in a later step.

Identify the three layers for the upright (the upright face piece, upright accent piece, and main upright piece).

Apply an even coat of latex contact adhesive (found at most hardware stores or home centers) to the rear of the face piece, both sides of the accent piece, and the front surface of the main piece. Follow the manufacturer's directions for the adhesive, noting that most adhesives dry in about 10-20 minutes. The adhesive must be dry to the touch. When ready, align one piece at a time and bond them together. Note: once one coated surface touches another, you cannot move it, so take your time in aligning the pieces together (see Fig. 4).

With the pieces sandwiched together, use a large dowel rod, a J-roller or similar to roll over the upper surface to ensure an even bond.

Center and attach plate No. 6 to the top of the stack (see Fig. 5), saw the upright to shape, and bore the 1-3/8"-Dia. hole to receive the clock movement. Note: I find it easier to drill a small pilot hole at the center indicated on the pattern first, then saw around the perimeter of the upright, and finally bore the 1-3/8"-Dia. hole using the pilot hole as a drill center for the Forstner bit. The pattern will most likely be ripped off by the spinning bit if you try to drill with the pattern attached. Use a roundover bit to lightly break the outer edges of the upright. DO NOT rout the bottom edge of the upright where it attaches to the base.

Assemble the base and apply finish

Repeat the sandwiching procedure used to laminate the upright to assemble the base (see Fig. 6). I used an ogee bit to put a profile on both the top and bottom edges of the base. Finally, center and glue the upright to the base. Finish with a non-yellowing finish such as Minwax Wood-Sheen Natural Rubbing Oil clear finish. Srj

WM8