Creative Woodworks & crafts 2003-04, страница 36

SUPPLIES

Wood: soft maple or other light-colored, easy-fo-cut wood - one piece 3/4" x 6" x 28" (for.the body); oak- one piece 3/4" x 4" x 6" (for fins A and B), one piece 3/8" x 5" x 18" (for fins C and D and the tail); plywood- one piece 1 /4" x 8" x 30" (for the backer), small pieces 1/8" and 1/4" (for shims); dowel rods-five pieces 3/4"-Dia. x 4-1/4" (for rod holders); one 2" x 4" block 4-1 /4" long (for dowel cutting jig) Tools: scroll saw with assorted blades; band saw; drill press with assorted sanding drums; 3/4"-Dia. spade bit and 3/16"-Dia. bit; counter sink; sanding mop with 100, 150, and 180 grit abrasive; finish sander; router with 3/8" round over bit, Temporary-bond spray adhesive 5-minute epoxy Carpenter's giue Pencil

Masking tape

Double stick tape or hot melt glue gun

Sandpaper, assorted grits

Pipe clamps

C-clamps

Wax paper

19mm glass eye item No. F-04GE*

Delta Ceramcoat acrylic paint: Brown Velvet, Burnt

Sienna, Eggshell White. Sea Grass, and Eucalyptus** Paintbrushes Delta Satin Spray Varnish No. 8 wood screws - five 1-1/4" and two 3" *Available from Wildlife Infarsia Designs (708-788-6455) www.wildlifeintarsiadesign.com **For a list of Delta retail dealers in your area and a color chart of the myriad of colors they offer, call Delta Technical Coatings at (800) 423-4135.

Patterns Located in Full Size}; Pattern Section No. 2! |;

MUSKIE FISHING ROD RACK

by Robert J. Hlavacek, Sr. of Wildlife Infarsia Designs

Creative Woodworks S. Crafts April 2003 • 19

1 I

Introduction

The inspiration for this project came on my last fishing vacation. Inside the porch of our rented cabin was a simple contrivance on which to hang our fishing rods after a day on the water. It was nothing more than a 1" x 4" with old, round, wooden clothes pins stuck in it. Since I haven't seen a round clothes pin in thirty years, I made a jig to easily cut dowels to hold the rods. I also replaced the 1 x 4 with an intarsia Muskie. Here's how it's done.

INSTRUCTIONS

Cut the pieces

Attach the pattern to the wood with temporary-bond spray adhesive. Bore two 3/16"-Dia. holes through the body where indicated for fastening to the wall. Countersink for the screw heads. Bore five 3/4"-Dia. holes 1/2" deep for the rod hanger pegs. Also, bore a 3/4"-Dia. hole approximately 1/8" deep for the glass eye. Since glass eyes may vary slightly in size, test drill in scrap wood for proper size and depth (see Fig. 1).

Cut the outside edges of the body on the band saw. The inside cuts will be made with the scroll saw for a better fit after routing the edges. Save the scraps from the top and bottom to aid in clamping when the project is glued together later. To more easily cut the head apart first remove it from the body (see Fig. 2).

Make the cuts in the body for fins A and B with the scroll saw, then trace the outline on the fins. It will be much easier to sand the fins to fit the body than the body to fit the fins (see Fig. 3).

The only pieces to fit on this project are the fins and tail; shown here is the process while working on the tail. After a piece is cut, sand the edge with a sanding drum in the drill press with an auxiliary table (see Fig. 4).

Place the previously cut tail piece on the piece it will adjoin and trace a new cut line with a pencil (see Fig. 5). Make the cut on the outside edge of the pencil line (see Fig. 6). Sand for a tight fit.

Lay a sheet of wax paper on a flat surface and glue the two halves of the tail together (see Fig. 7). 5-minute epoxy works well here. The entire tail will be cut out after it is fit to the body.

Edge gluing the project together on wax paper, as shown, will be the procedure we'll use for assembling the entire project after painting.

Use a drum sander with the drill press to sand the edges of the