Popular Woodworking 2000-06 № 115, страница 19

When pattern-routing the curve on the legs, make sure you have the work firmly clamped in place. I have the pattern and leg wedged between two pieces of oak (the pattern is on the underside of the leg).Then the leg itself is clamped to the table.You also could perform this operation on a router table with a starting pin for pattern-routing.

ing out the locations of your mortises. The rule of thumb is that your mortises should be one half the thickness of your tenon's stock. When your stock is ³/4" thick, your mortises and tenons should be ³/s" thick. That means the tenons for the beefy back rail should be thicker (⁷/l6") and those for the side slats should be thinner (H").

Also remember that except for the tenons on the legs and slats, all the tenons are ³/4" long. To ensure your tenons don't bottom out in your mortises, it's always a good idea to make your mortises about ¹/l6" deeper than your tenons are long.

After you mark the locations of all the mortises, it's time cut them. There are 38 mortises in this project. You'd be nuts to do these all by hand. Use this project as an ex-

To make a template for the mortises in the arms and the cutouts on the side slats, position your plywood over your table saw and raise the blade into the ply.Move the fence over and repeat.Then turn the pattern 90 degrees and repeat for the other edges of the pattern. Note that I made cuts in the front of the pattern to help me size the pattern to the tenons.

make cuts in the front edge of the board to check your template against the tenon

35 ¹/4"

7 ⁵/8"

Profile

1 ⁵/8"

22 ¹/2"

1 ⁵/8" 6"

f-T

2 1/2"

1 ³/8" radius

1"

-⁷/8"

7/8"

¹/16" overhang

See rail locations for info on the rails.

6 ¹/4"

2 ³/8" -

4 1"

1 ³/16"

1 3/8"

1 5/8" 4"

5 1/2"

4 3/4" 1 3/4" 4 1/2"

22 ¹/8"

}_

3 3/4"

Elevation

li

20 ¹/2"

> _ )

3 ³/4"

f ^T

20 ¹/2"

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