Popular Woodworking 2000-06 № 115, страница 21

Plan of Back and Seat

<t"

¹/8"

ff

7 3/4"

: 1/2"

28 ¹/4"

1 7/8" 3 1/8" 1 7/8" 3 1/8" 1 7/8" 3 1/8" 1 7/8" 3 1/8" 1 7/8" 3 1/8"

3 ¹/4"

7 3/4"

: 1/2"

2 ¹/2" 2 3/4" 2 ¹/2" 2 3/4" 2 ¹/2" 2 3/4" 2 ¹/2" 2 3/4" 2 ¹/2"

1 7/8"

8"

2 ¹/2" 2 3/4" 2 ¹/2" 2 3/4" 2 ¹/2" 2 3/4" 2 ¹/2" 2 3/4" 2 ¹/2"

23 ¹/2"

J=—X-

1 7/8"

8"

wood on your table saw. Refer to the photo earlier in the story to see how to do this.

Now cut your mortises. I used a template bit with cutters on the bottom and a guide bearing on top. If you don't have a bit with cutters on the bottom, you can still plunge with a straight bit. Just plunge slowly and wiggle the router a bit as you go. Cut the mortises in two passes.

After you're sure the arms fit on the legs, cut the curve on the front of the arm. Attach the full-size pattern to your arm and cut the shape on a band saw. Clean up the cuts with a stationary belt sander. Now taper the arms with your band saw

Be sure to make a test arm before you go mortising the real thing.You'll be glad you did.

1 ¹/8"

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and clean up the cut with your jointer. Glue the arms and slats in place.

Now shape the back rod that adjusts the seat back angle. Bevel one edge of the rod on your jointer and cut notches on the ends so the rod fits between the arms. Attach the back to the seat frame with a piano hinge. Screw the cleats to the front and back of the frame in the locations shown in the diagram; slip the seat in place.

Finishing

This takes some effort, but it is well worth it. The first step is to dye the chair with an alcohol-based aniline dye that's reddish. See the supplies list for ordering information. Then apply one coat of boiled linseed

SUPPLIES

Slotted Piano Hinge Rockier Woodworking and Hardware: 800279-4441 or www.rock-ler.com

Item # 19241 • $6.99

Moser's Aniline Dye Woodworker's Supply: 800-645-9292 Medium red mahogany, alcohol soluble • item# AI670I • $8.80

Warm Brown Glaze Made by Lilly Industries (formerly Guardsman). For a list of distributors of Lilly wood products, visit the company's website at: http://www.lillyindus-tries.com/en/sbu/wood/ wooddist.htm

Peg the tenons that join the front rail to the front legs and the back rail to the back legs. If you've ever pegged tenons before, you know that dowels can be wildly different sizes than they're supposed to be. Here's a trick. If your dowel is a bit undersized, glue it in place and cut it nearly flush to the surface.Then put several drops of thinned glue on the end grain of the dowel. It wicks in the glue, expands and glues up tight.When the glue is dry, cut the dowel flush.

oil to the chair. You can get this at any home center store. Wipe off the excess and let it dry overnight. The linseed oil helps seal the wood before your final coloring step and helps bring out the ray flake.

Now wipe on a thin coat of Lilly's warm brown glaze. We live and die by this stuff when finishing Arts & Crafts furniture. We're not aware of a catalog that sells it, but you can visit Lilly's website (at the address in the supplies box) to find a paint store that carries this glaze. Wipe the glaze until you achieve an even tone. Allow it to dry overnight. Finally, apply three coats of a clear finish— whatever you're comfortable with. PW

Editor's note: Plans for the Stickley side table shown in the opening photo can be found on the following page. Also, did you ever wonder what happens to projects built by the Popular Woodworking staff? Recently we've begun selling some completed projects on ebay.com, an internet auction site. The Morris Chair featured on the cover and the Stickley Table will go up for sale on May 1,2000. Check out the auction at www.ebay.com

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