Popular Woodworking 2000-06 № 115, страница 41
HAUNCHED TENON DOORS The joinery used in the doors is a little complicated when you look at it, but makes so much sense that once you've done a set, you'll use this method without question. 'i I With the rails cut to size, the first step is to define the shoulders of the tenon.With your rip fence set to cut 1 '/4" (don't forget the blade's thickness), cut '/4" deep on the two wide faces for the rails, and on one edge of the rail. On the final edge, reset the fence to cut 1" and make the cut. This is the haunched part of the joint and will be the outside edge of the door. 2 The next step is to use a tenoning jig (you can see mine has seen a little bit of use) to cut the cheeks of the tenons. 3 The third step is to reset the fence to define the width of the tenon. First cut the full-depth side of the tenon,then reset the blade height and cut the haunched side of the tenon (shown). 4 The last step is to run the groove for the door panel.This same groove process works for the panels in the door section bottoms.When running a centered groove like this, I first make a cut approximately in the center of the piece.Then I adjust the fence and, with a scrap piece, test my cut. By running first one face against the fence, then flipping it and running the other, I am guaranteed the '/V x /4 groove is centered on the door piece. When the stiles and rails are assembled, the haunch left on the tenon hides the groove on the stiles, making it unnecessary to make stopped grooves. My tapering jig is simply a couple of pieces of 3A" pine screwed to a 'A" piece of Baltic birch. It is built to cut one particular taper, in this case the taper for a huntboard leg, and is inexpensive enough to be one of many tapering jigs I use. Unlike some tapering jigs,the leg is carried on the '/i" piece, supporting the leg from bottom and side. than make a new jig for the middle legs, I mark their tapers, cut them 1/l6" proud on the band saw, then run them over the jointer to clean up the cut. Many Many Mortises With the legs tapered, take a couple of minutes to glue up panels for the back, ends and partitions. Set them aside to dry. Next, mark each leg for mortises. Where the panels meet the legs there are three V4" x 3" x 1 VV-long mortises, evenly spaced along the top 15V2" of the leg and set so the ends will be flush to the outside face of the outer legs and the partitions flush to the inside edge of the two interior legs. Where the dividers and rails meet the legs, use V4" x 1/2" x 1"-long mortises, again orienting the mortises to keep the rails and legs flush to the outside. With all the mortises cut, unclamp your panels and trim them to final size. Then mark the tenon locations to match your If you use your table saw for this step, you'll notice that the back is a little difficult to mount in your tenoning jig without taking out a section of your ceiling. I'd recommend setting your rip fence for the 11/4" length of the tenon (don't forget to include the thickness of your blade), set the blade height to V4" and run the back flat 10 Popular Woodworking June 2000 |
