Popular Woodworking 2000-06 № 115, страница 423/4" 16 5/8" 3/4" 22" V4" x 3/4" dado1' .v3/4" 3/4" 16 5/8" 3/4" "-ff-ff 1 7/8" / 15 1/4" 1 7/8 £ 14 3/8" 1 7/8 7/8" 22" 58 1/4" 7/8" notch - ' , 1/2" 1 7/8" 14 3/8" 1,1 7/8" W/8" 3/4" 16 5/8" 3/4" ff-iT" End & partition layout 22" 2 1/4" 9" 2 1/4" 1" 3/4" 16 5/8" 3/4" -ff V 8 3/4" 2 1/4" 1 1/8" 6 3/8" o 3/4" 6 3/8" y > ^Bottom panels are elevated 1/4" past the front rail to stop door 3/4" X— k Taper starts 16" down from top of leg 7/8" 1" 13 1/2" 3/4'\ 17 1/8" 24 3/4" 41" 1 7/8^ 14 3/8" 1 7/8" 22" 1 7/8" 14 3/8" 58 1/4" 1 7/8" 1 7/8 < 1/2" overhang 3/4" - 1" 13 1/2" 24 3/4" 41" 1 7/8" 15 5/8" a sled) to support the panel's back edge. Nibble away the rest of the tenon length with repeated saw passes. The rest can be cut with a hand saw. If you haven't noticed, I'm a fan of solid wood — even on my backs, partitions and bottoms. Along with that appreciation of solid wood comes an appreciation of what solid wood can do when it moves with the seasons. Because of this, trim the width of your tenons on the panels as much as Vs" per tenon. This should allow room for wood movement. In addition, when you get to the assembly stage, it's prudent to glue primarily the center of the panel, which will allow the ends to expand. While you're milling the back, set your saw to cut two /4 x -wide dadoes in the back to accept the ends of the partitions. Other necessary pre-assembly joinery includes mortises in the back of the drawer dividers for the drawer runners. Mark and cut the two 1/4" x 1" x 3/8"-deep mortises in each drawer divider. There's plenty of work for a mortiser in my shop.To avoid taxing (or damaging) the mortising chisel,make your first two cuts one at either end of the mortise.Then skip a chisel-width space moving toward the center of the mortise, and come back to clear the space you skipped.This keeps the chisel from being bent. |