Popular Woodworking 2000-06 № 115, страница 44
® "L" shaped top fasteners S!a;'Steonretr'Sp 1/4" x 2 7/8" x 1 1/4" tenons on ends . 1/4" x 3/4" the peg in a round hole and end up with a visible square peg. After the joints are pegged, cut them flush and give the entire case exterior a thorough sanding. When the doors are dry, use the same pegging technique, then sand the doors and bottom panels. Next make the two drawers. They are constructed using half-blind dovetails on the front and through-dovetails at the back. The bottoms are solid panels raised on the table saw to fit into 1/4"-wide x H"-deep grooves in the drawer sides, fronts and backs. The groove is cut 1/2" up from the bottom of each piece. If you do this on your table saw, make sure the groove is aligned properly with the dovetails to hide the groove at the joints. The drawers ride on runners attached to the inside surface of the center partitions. Each runner has a tenon on one end that fits into the mortises cut earlier in the back of the middle and lower drawer divider. I taper the back end of each runner to make it easier to nail the back end in place to the partition, once the proper alignment is achieved. Across the Finish Line The last piece is the top itself. Glue up the pieces necessary, leaving them slightly oversized until dry, then cut the top to finished size. To attach the top to the case, I use "L"-shaped fasteners that I make myself. One end of the fastener is screwed to the underside of the top, and the other fits into slots cut on the inner surface of the case with a router and spline cutter. Don't push the tongue of the fastener all the way into the groove to allow for wood movement in the top from front to back. The front edge of the top is attached by screws run up through the top rails in the door and drawer sections. Before finishing, attach the hardware for the doors, mortising the doors to accommodate the hinges. Test the doors and trim to fit if necessary. The door section bottom is a half-lapped frame and panel. Seen from the ends, the two frame pieces show the center groove for the panel, and the half-lap cut. Seen below the pieces is the assembled frame (left). Happy that I got everything glued up on the case by myself, I'm ready to mount the drawer runners on the inside of the center drawer section (below). The finish itself is one I use on all my pieces. I start with a water-based aniline dye. I used Moser's Early American Cherry (Woodworker's Supply, 800-645-9292, item #W14304, $11.70 ) on the piece shown here. Once the dye is dry, lightly sand the entire piece to remove any raised grain, then spray the piece with sanding sealer and five coats of lacquer. The hardware that I like for this piece is simple brass (unless someone wants glass.) I used two H-97L 11/4" knobs for the doors and four K-12 11/4" knobs for the drawers. All are available from Horton Brass (800754-9127). Of course, if you prefer a nice glass knob, there's nothing wrong with that. The customer is always right. PW |
