Popular Woodworking 2002-06 № 128, страница 57the lower front rail and nail them to the rear of the back leg. Nail the drawer guides to the runners, flush to the leg blocks. Next build the drawer. The drawer front is flush with the face of the cupboard. You can see the layout of the hand-cut dovetails at right. I used half-blind dovetails at the front and through-dovetails at the back. The solid-wood bottom is a raised panel that fits into grooves in the sides and drawer front. Once you've built the drawer, slide it into the lower section and align the drawer front with the case front. Then measure and cut the stops for the drawer. Attach the stops with a screw and glue each to the back leg (see the photo on the next page). Next remove the drawer, then lay out and drill holes in the legs and through the case's tenons for the square pegs. Set the pegs and cut them flush with the case. Now glue up the boards you'll need for the top of the lower section. To attach it, I used shop-made wooden clips. I used a biscuit joiner to cut the recess in the sides, back and top front rail to accept the clips. Upper Section Next To begin the cupboard's upper section, cut your sides and shelves Before I glued the drawer parts together, I ran the bottom edge of my drawer front over the jointer with the fence set at a 5° angle and the machine set to make a Vi6"-deep cut.This creates a slight bevel that allows the drawer to close without the bottom edge catching on the lower front rail. Here you can see the layout of the hand-cut dovetails used to build the drawer. SHAKER PRESS CUPBOARD
TBE=tenon both ends;TOE=tenon one end; Primary wood=maple; secondary wood=poplar TBE=tenon both ends;TOE=tenon one end; Primary wood=maple; secondary wood=poplar 55 |