Popular Woodworking 2002-10 № 130, страница 52

BLOCK PLANES

Try as you might, it's tough to get by without a block plane. These small-scale planes are great for trimming joints flush, cleaning up edges and dozens of other chores in the workshop. We recommend you buy a low-angle block plane with an adjustable throat - the most versatile version of this common tool.

SETUP & USE

Fettling

All planes require some setup. Block planes can usually be set up in less than an hour. Here are the basics: First flatten the sole by rubbing it on a flat sharpening stone or on sandpaper glued to a hard, flat surface.

Second, flatten the cutting face, commonly called the "back" of the iron. Rub the iron on the same surface you used to flatten the sole. Finally, sharpen the cutting bevel. (See "Sharpening for Dullards" in our Woodshop Essentials special issue, available at www.popwood.com.)

Making the Cut

Extend the iron out of the mouth about and look at the plane head on. Adjust the iron until it is square to the sole. Retract the iron into the plane's body. Make a test cut and advance the iron just a bit. You can use one hand

or two when pushing the plane, whatever is more comfortable for you. When you get wispy shavings the full width of the iron, you've arrived. Close up the adjustable throat so it's tight on the iron and get busy. PW

• FETTLING Even the most expensive block plane requires some setup, often called fettling. This entails flattening the sole, truing the cutting face and sharpening the cutting bevel. The more money you spend, the less fettling you have to do.

• LATERAL ADJUSTMENT This feature allows you to make the iron parallel to the mouth - usually necessary if you aren't a perfect sharpener. If you are careful, then lateral adjustment isn't necessary. Plus, it's one less thing to go out of wack.

• IRON THICKNESS Without a doubt, the thicker the iron, the less chance your plane will chatter across your work. Thicker irons are usually better made, too.

• DEPTH ADJUSTER In general, we think that fine control of the iron is best. The difference between a perfect cut and something unpleasant is a few thousandths of an inch. Look for a block plane that requires more turns to move the iron ¹/i6".

PW

Recommends

OCCASIONAL USER

• Record 6OV2 low-angle block plane. This reasonably priced ($50) English-made tool is a good first block plane. Its fit and finish generally exceed that of its main rival, the Stanley 6OV2.

SERIOUS HOME

WOODWORKER

• Veritas 05P22.01 low-angle block plane. This is a well-made plane and an excellent design ($90). Perfect for end-grain jobs. The plane body is made of indestructible ductile iron and the iron is A2 steel.

ADVANCED

WOODWORKER OR

PROFESSIONAL

• Lie-Nielsen 6OV2 plane.

Quite simply the best that money can buy ($150), and worth it. The body is made of indestructible ductile iron and the iron is cryogenically treated A2 steel.

These tools have been tested or used by

the editors of Popular Woodworking

and have earned their recommendation.

t Ratings are on a basis of 1 to 5 with "one" being "unacceptable" and "five" being " outstanding"

NOTE: "Turns to move V16¹"' indicates how many full turns of the depth-adjustment knob were necessary to move the iron forward Vi6". "Depth knob slop" indicates how much we needed to turn the depth knob before the iron would move either in or out. And "throat/blade variance" indicates how much wider the plane's throat is compared to the iron. ■ = PW Recommends

t Ratings are on a basis of 1 to 5 with "one" being "unacceptable" and "five" being " outstanding"

NOTE: "Turns to move V16¹"' indicates how many full turns of the depth-adjustment knob were necessary to move the iron forward Vi6". "Depth knob slop" indicates how much we needed to turn the depth knob before the iron would move either in or out. And "throat/blade variance" indicates how much wider the plane's throat is compared to the iron. ■ = PW Recommends

52 Popular Woodworking October 2002