Popular Woodworking 2002-12 № 131, страница 26
'Secret' Tapered Tenon Repairs the Impossible
If a rail on a stool, chair or similar piece of furniture breaks, a replacement cannot be made with ordinary tenons, as the legs cannot be sprung apart to get it in. I solved the problem with a secret tenon.
After removing the broken rail and cleaning out the mortises, I made a new rail with a normal tenon at one end. I cut the other end to fit snug against the leg and made a long tapered tenon-width groove on the underside, where it would not be seen. I made
a loose tenon to fit the mortise that is tapered to fit in the rail groove. With the tenon glued into the mortise and the taper glued into the groove, no one will know it's a repair unless they turn the job upside down.
Percy Blandford Stratford-upon-Avon, England
Tricks to Making Cope-and-stick Doors With Fewer Cuts
When cutting rails and stiles for cope-and-stick doors, I cut them in pairs from wider boards to reduce the number of cuts needed and increase my accuracy. If the stiles and rails are to be 21/2" wide, I first cut 51/2"-wide boards to length.
Then I mark each board with an identifying number or symbol to keep them together. I then rip the stiles to width, but I leave the rails at 51/2" wide and then cope
the ends using a cope-and-stick set in my router table. A wider board is easier to cope on the router table and it saves time by cutting the number of coping passes in half. Another benefit is there's less chance of tearout. If any tearout does occur on the ends, you can rip the piece to have the tearout on the fall-off section because of the extra width.
Then, by ripping the rails to finished width, (or a little wider if you want to joint
them) and keeping the pairs together, you know they are the same length. This also works well with the stiles, because even a small difference will keep them from being square. By using normal router or shaping practices and backer boards, tearout should be nil.
Charles Townsend Longview, Texas
continued on page 28
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