Popular Woodworking 2003-04 № 133, страница 78

triangular door stop behind the face frame. Finish sand both doors and the cupboard, then send it to the finishing room.

The Back and Finishing Touches

I used "Dark Wine Cherry" aniline dye stain from Moser. After the stain has dried, knock down the "fuzzies" with 400-grit paper and apply a coat of boiled linseed oil. Once that has dried, spray the piece with five coats of shellac (sanding between the third and fourth coats). For the final finishing touch, I hand rubbed the piece with #0000 steel wool and Behlen's Wool-Lube.

The last details are cutting the shiplapped back to size. Paint it and the interior of the cabinet. Then install the back.

The wrought iron hardware I used on the piece may not be historically accurate, but I think it really dresses the piece up nicely, so the heck with historical accuracy. The photos and captions will walk you through installing the hardware. PW

With the cabinet assembled, follow the cut list to size the pieces of the door frames. Lay out and cut the mortises and tenons, remembering to use a haunch cut on the top and bottom rails (right). Next cut the groove in both the rails and stiles to accept the raised panels (below right). The panels themselves are raised by setting the table saw's blade to a 12° and cutting to fit the V4"-wide groove.

The back and interior of these cabinets were traditionally painted, so I followed suit. This makes it possible to cut and fit the back after the rest of the cabinet is finished. I used a traditional and simple shiplap joint to assemble the solid back pieces. I then applied two coats of "Olde Century Colors" acrylic latex paint (Windsor Chair Green) to the back pieces (at left) and the interior of the cabinet (right). Once the paint is dry, nail the back boards in place with a single nail, centered in each back board, top, middle shelf and bottom. Space the back boards evenly, leaving adequate room to allow for seasonal wood movement.

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