Popular Woodworking 2004-08 № 142, страница 36

Popular Woodworking 2004-08 № 142, страница 36

Layout involves transferring the dimensions from the plans. The centerline with cross lines indicate the major points. Connect the straight lines, then sketch in the curved transitions.

But you should be forewarned. A paddle is sculpture in a traditional form and requires a practiced eye for proportion. This is something we're all born with to a degree, and we can develop it with practice. The exact ratio of "birth-given" and "practice-acquired" is a mystery. I have observed a wide range of accomplishment among my boatbuilding students when assigned this task. Most of my students made a functional paddle; few were able to make a graceful one their first time.

Today, paddle blanks stand in a corner of my shop, some cut out, some waiting as a piece of spruce fram ing. There are a few that are shaped, ready to be sanded and varnished. And there is Burke's demonstration paddle, signed and dated to remind me of that summer day when I was blown away by the accomplishment of

HOME SHOP CLASSES

To learn more about paddles and the tools shown here, check out John Wilson's classes at the Home Shop. It is located at 406 E. Broadway, Charlotte, MI 48813. Call 517543-5326 (8:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. EST). For a class schedule, visit ShakerOvalBox.com.

The following one-day tool and paddle events are a good value at $90, which includes materials and lunch.

• Wood Block Plane Making Jan. 15, 2005

• Tool Sharpening Jan. 29, 2005

• Spokeshave Making Feb. 12, 2005

• Make Your Own Paddle March 19, 2005

John also is offering a Wood Block Plane Making class March 12, 2005, in Syracuse, N.Y. Contact John for more information.

tools in the hand of a craftsman with an eye to make something of utility and grace.

Choosing the Right Wood

The best wood for paddles will be stiff, strong and lightweight. Maple or ash are fine for structure, but they are a bit heavy for long use on the water. Spruce is lighter and easier to shape. Sitka spruce is acclaimed, and rightly so, for being strong and light. But the effort required to secure that species is quite unnecessary.

There is a classification of construction framing called SPF, which stands for spruce-pine-fir (in this case "hem fir" or "western hemlock"). All three species designated for this class will work in paddle-making. Black spruce is most prevalent, and perhaps the best of the three. Pine has more flex, while hemlock is a little more difficult to work with hand tools.

The wide availability of residential framing stock at a reasonable price is one of the attractive aspects of this project. What is essential is straightness of grain, followed by clear lengths free of knots. Spruce is bedeviled by small knots, and an occasional pin knot will not significantly affect the paddle. I use a drop of cyanoac-rylate glue (such as Hot Stuff) to seal small imperfections.

While you need only a 2x6 plank that is 6' long, you are unlikely to find the best lumber in small sizes of framing stock. The longer (16' to 24') and the wider (10" or 12") the stick, the better luck you will have getting your clear paddle blank. I believe this is because the mills use the better grade of logs for the longest lengths, resulting in some portion of a long joist (in a house) being clear. Buy the long length, cut your paddle blanks from the best portion and use the rest of the wood for some future project.

Ten Steps to Making a Paddle

Briefly, here is how the process works: Plane the plank to 11/4" thickness. Trace and cut the silhouette. Block plane and spoke-shave all the sides smooth.

Draw lines around the edges to define the center of the paddle and its thicknesses. Thin the paddle's blade using a drawknife and a plane. Shape the handle using a hand saw, drawknife, chisel and plane.

Round the shaft by first making it an octagon. Transition the shaft to the blade and handle with a spokeshave. Smooth the paddle, with a wood rasp and sandpaper. And finally, varnish the paddle leaving the grip unfinished.

Creating a Paddle Blank

Plane your plank to 1V4" thick. Then draw the silhouette of your paddle. It's easiest to trace around an existing paddle, making adjustments in shaft length to fit the intended paddler's height. Paddle length is a personal matter - generally, the paddle should be about chin height.

To follow the plans given at right, start by making a center-line the length of the plank. Next, mark off both ends of the paddle. Mark where the blade and shaft meet, the start of the handle, and the saw kerf on the grip. (See the photo above for details.) Now mark half-widths (use the widths given on the drawing divided in

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Popular Woodworking August 2004