Popular Woodworking 2004-10 № 143, страница 102
After mounting the leg on the lathe, turn the foot to its finished diameter. It will be necessary to stop the lathe and trim the back of the leg where it meets the foot with a chisel, as shown.
With the foot at its final diameter, cut a slight reveal to separate the foot visually from the leg, as shown above.
You will need to stop the lathe and remove the waste material at the rear of the foot with a chisel. This will allow you to get your lathe tools in close enough to finish shaping the foot.
Use the point of your skew to mark and define the top of the foot. Then cut the V8" pad to a 13/4" diameter using a parting tool. Finally, roll the foot edge to the pad using a skew to complete the shape of the foot. Then go ahead and turn the other three legs to match the first one.
Sanding and Hand Work
The next step is to flatten the top of the foot so that the foot transitions smoothly into the ankle of the leg. While this can be com
pleted with chisels and rasps, I find that a spindle sander speeds the process along.
It's time to shape the legs themselves. I use this Shinto Saw Rasp (tools-for-woodworking.com, $27) for the majority of my shaping, along with a few other finer rasps, files and scrapers.
These particular legs have a rather pointed knee so the shaping is basic. I begin by rounding the ankle to a complete diameter and then gradually I move up the leg by transitioning the shape to a square at the knee. By sight and feel you want to move from the roundness of the ankle to the square of the knee area.
This last step will give you the shape you want, but it's still pretty
Finally, the pad is turned to a Vs" tall by 13/4" diameter at the base of the leg and the foot is radiused to meet the pad.
There's no getting around some muscle power to shape the legs themselves. Proper tools speed things up, such as this aggressive open-form rasp.
A spindle sander takes a lot of the effort out of the process of smoothing the transition from the leg to the foot.